Cannondale 3.0 for steel swap out

Just reading this back, is the fork definitely stock? Looking at old C'dale catalogues, forks came threaded until around 1997, by which time they'd dropped the cantilever stays. I've not had a hard look but I can't find the R300 in that colour either.

I'm not trying to nitpick because the bike is lovely, just curious really.

I'll get a pic of my rear (matron) in a bit.

Unless this is the actual frame there are others in that colour way with ahead.

1995 apparently.

Had to stop scrolling through google images as was lusting.

1 Attachment

Yes its definitely stock, the paint is an exact match and it has a matching serial number. As TM pointed out that other frame is identical! The 2.8 and mountain bikes in the 1994 catalogue all have ahead, (I didn't realise it was around that early tbh) . Later Cannondale catalogues seem to switch back to threaded intermittently, Ive seen CAD 3 and 4 frames with threaded steerers.. My bike isn't in the brochure on Vintage Cannondale/Retrobike but remember that may be a U.S .edition, there were probably variations around the world.

At the moment the fork is plenty comfortable enough with 25c tyres at 90psi. Ive come from a steel bike and I don't find it that much different, considering the reputation old 'dales have, it just accelerates and climbs much better. I think perhaps the 2.8 frames were a lot stiffer with the ovalised tubes? Also I suspect people used to ride much skinnier tyres back then..

Carbon would be nice but I'm not sure how much dampening it would actually proivde, reports for these frames on the web seem to suggest not much compared to better tyres , saddle and tape. My fork has a steel steerer so maybe that helps? I'd like carbon for the weight reduction as much as anything and that means full carbon.

That last fork I linked was full carbon 330g...

Just double checked my steerer, its 225, think Ill just have to save for an uncut Minimal

I'm intrigues by the mysteries of this now...

Anyway, my rear dropout "plates" actually turned out to be a rear mech hanger!

1 Attachment

..Also just discovered, Race blades do not work on these frames! Because the seat stays are effectively pushed forward relative to the hub/centre of the wheel , the metal stays of the mudguard are too short and the angles are all wrong. Had to do some major bodging to get it to fit without rubbing! Think it has clearance for full guards but again the metal rods on my bluemels are too short so will have to buy some more.

yeah ive had to bend the raceblade stays to different angles for them to work on any of my frames...

I had one of these frames for a while, absolutely loved it. Nowhere near as harsh as everyone claims, but bloody quick. Same problem with mudguards too, with crud catchers. I used one of those stabilo erasers cut in half as a spacer for the stay mounts

good tip, cheers . I got a raceblade long to work , shame the bracket clips always seem to break on these, havent tried the new version though