Sparky's murdered-out road bike

I set up exactly the same set up last night, using this guide: http://www.moonigan.co.uk/index.php/2015/05/15/how-to-setup-a-shimano-ultegra-6800-front-derailleur/

It did the trick, shifting well at the front this morning.

Have you got a cable adjuster for the front mech?
To set the height, with no cable attached, the outer edge of the cage should be about 2 or 3 mm above the outer chainring.
Make sure the derailleur is parallel with the chainring.
To set the lower limit, have the outside edge of the cage level with the outside edge of the big chainring, place a large allen key against the chainring and adjust the limit screw until the cage touches it.
While there's no cable tension, push the derailleur out as far as you can to set the upper limit, don't let the cage go more than a few mm past the outer chainring.

Make sure the hood shifter is in the lowest position, pull through the cable as tight as you can and tighten the clamp bolt.

Try shifting to each end of the cassette on each chainring and use the inline cable adjuster to fine tune it for rubbing. Inevitably you'll add some tension when it's rubbing on one end then it makes it rub on the other end but just play with it, it's a fine balance, make small adjustments and do a shift on front after each adjustment to make sure it's bedded in.

@plexarice @Sumo Thanks both. Yup, got a cable adjuster on the downtube. I stopped last night because I was getting a bit tired and frustrated and I know that no solutions come at that point.

Sometimes it's just a bitch to get right and you have to accept it will rub a bit on the big-big or small-small ones.

Just fitted a lighter Thomson post from @Gussio and cut the cable inners to length. This has brought the total weight down by.... 0g.

The post is 410mm so I can probably cut it down by 10cm or so once I know what's what.

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Wrong way around

Stop using MTB Components and you might get it Down in weight.

I've never understood the use of Thomson stuff on road bikes.

are you on tumblr?

It says "front" on the bit I have facing forward, so... it isn't.

that is part of the clamp assembly - it can be turned around

It can be, but the post is symmetrical in the vertical in two planes: if I turn it around it'll be exactly the same as it is now.

i think the writing goes up on one side, down on the other

The index marks have to be on the drive-side. It's the law.

Well, now that I know that something so inconsequential has upset so many people, it's bloody staying like that forever.

Leave the post alone, don't center the inner tube valves with the tyre marking/branding and take a non driveside photo of the built bike and peoples heads will explode with rage :)

your troll game is weak

put a 650 aero wheel on the front, rizrz, coloured chain, suspension seat post, mismatched saddle to grips, flat pedals, coloured tyres...

dancing james, i was being mild, your nuking things from orbit with that lot :)

Filling it With chubby american Thomson kit.

Then bemoaning the weight.

Was enough for me.

shakes fist at screen

The index marks have to be on the drive-side. It's the law.

Ironically the index numbers are opposite to the Thomson writing.

Bloody inline chubby American kit, too!

In-line Thomson + 60mm MTB stem = can steer with knees while rolling cigs.

He could do this instead

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I've cut the steerer down a little, just to make it rideable so I can get it dialled-in and decide on the final length needed. But I can't get this little bugger out. Any tips? Worried about having to do this again once I decide on the final fit.

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And another shot of my awful, awful seatpost choice.

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The total non-observance of fashion norms is awesome.