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• #1477
They both use m6 thread so you can change to the type you like:
I have changed to the grub screw for a more secure bond when bleeding the brakes (+ more æro, less weight...:))
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• #1478
Can someone please recommend a decent disc rotor for 140 and 160mm? With the stock trp rotor, you can hear where the pads run off the thicker part of the braking surface onto empty space then back into the braking surface. It's like a ticking and is extremely annoying. I'm after something with a braking surface that is always running the height of the pads. Was looking at the avid g2 clean sweep? Any other recommendations before I buy? Thanks!
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• #1479
Hope on mine and no noise . Bought from merlin as knowone else had them .
Stand silver not floating. -
• #1480
Sounds like your rotor is a bit bent.
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• #1481
Unfortunately not =[
All is true and well aligned.
Spinning the wheel slowly with the lever pulled gently so the pads brush the rotor you can hear a tick every time the braking surface of the rotor goes from thin to thick, (side view, not thickness of the rotor as such) the profile. So I want a rotor that doesn't go thin every time it reaches a 'rotor spoke arm' or whatever it may be called. See the attached image, hopefully that explains it better.Edit: sorry, from thick to thin, the edge of the pad slips off to empty space I guess?
1 Attachment
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• #1482
avid g2 or g3 solid sweep have no cutout at the rotor legs: Works fine.
The newish Sram Rotor Centerline looks good too (what I would buy.):
hs1 works with thinner pads so probably not for your setup:
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• #1483
Thanks for the recommendation. I'll check out the SRAM ones and buy that or the avid. Exactly what I'm looking for. That image of the avid hs1 you showed describes exactly what I mean, where the edge of the pad meets the rotor suddenly you can hear a definite tick at each rotor 'leg'
Thanks!
Edit: after some internet shopping I decided to spend the extra £10 and went for the centerline rotors. Hopefully they resolve the problem.
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• #1484
Is it a problem in real use? How often are you holding the brakes enough to do that but not stop you while listening to them? Or does it cause some kind of obvious feedback when braking harder?
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• #1485
At high speed it's a an audible ticking at a very fast frequency (without trying to listen for it) and then as I come to a stop I can feel the ticking as well as hear it. it occurs 8 times per revolution (in line with the 8 rotor legs) and gets very annoying. It takes some confidence away from the brakes despite them still working.
I've got some centreline rotors on their way so I will try them and hopefully that resolves the problem. -
• #1486
Happen to me before.
When you look at the rotor, can you see where the braking line is? is there's a big gap between the top of the rotor and the braking surface? the calipers is probably a little too low.
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• #1487
Does sound annoying, I've needed a washer or 2 under some calipers to get things lined up properly before.
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• #1488
Exactly, FWIW I'm using the same rotor, so far it's quiet after a single washer.
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• #1489
But then again, cantis.
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• #1490
because they never squeal or judder?
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• #1491
Good point, well made.
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• #1492
Set up my Spyres with the goodridge outers and they're very good. Nice firm action
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• #1493
Ah ok, thanks for the advice.
And to @snottyotterThe rotor is burnished(?) in a similar way to the avid hs1 above on the inner radius. The outer radius is all within the pads reach.
So I wouldn't want to move the caliper further from the rotor would I? or if so, how do I decide? -
• #1494
Ah a single washer? Which side? That may set the pads at a slight offset angle to the rotor and ease onto the rotor rather than abruptly hit it?
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• #1495
You've probably got it covered with a new rotor, worth asking a few questions to double check first though.
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• #1496
Yeah, I appreciate the hive mind help.
I kinda thought I knew what was happening but wanted to just double check incase there was something serious I was missing. Thanks all! -
• #1497
I mean a single washer on both top and botton, basically to space it away from the fork a bit by a millimetre.
I'm talking about putting it in between the calipers and the mount, not the mount and the fork.
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• #1498
Yeah I thought that's what you meant but wasn't sure if you meant 1 washer on one or on both. If all else fails I'll give that a go. I don't have an adapter on the front. Just post mount and caliper. Should there be a washer between the post mount and caliper as standard? (Not including your fix)
Edit: for anyone with this issue in the future. Try the washer idea first. Rather than spending £50 on some round metal things with a slightly different shape....
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• #1499
There shouldn't be a washer originally (except an adaptor to run bigger rotor, but every once in a while, some bike may be a millimetres too low/high (latter is easily remedy by facing the mount).
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• #1500
Aye! Nice one.
Spo they can sell you a convoluted bleed kit for mucho dinero obvs!