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  • Aside from the fact that he needs to add an extra circuit to the CU, so you need space in the CU for that. If you don't have any space in the CU then you are better off finding a 13amp cooker because the whole installation would need to be up to code in order to replace it.

    Otherwise it's a question of fitting an appropriate breaker, choosing the correct size cable, adding an outlet marked cooker and wiring the cooker to it with another appropriate size cable. Testing the Zs, Insulation Resistance and RCD & filing out an Electrical Installation Certificate with test results. All in a days work if the cable run is easy.

  • Aside from the fact that he needs to add an extra circuit to the CU, so you need space in the CU for that.

    Ha. Haha. Hahahahahaha. Nope. (See attached pic of CU).

    Just got to hope it is a 13A cooker. JL says it is. AO says it is ( http://ao.com/product/zoa35802xd-zanussi-electric-single-oven-stainless-steel-24790-45.aspx ). Just some of the datasheets on the Zanussi site don't agree.

    Last question (I promise). If I did get a 13A unit that's replacing the existing one with a connector block on the back for the power (so the existing cable could be reused), would I (according to the regs) require someone competent to do that job? (I know I could get away with doing it myself, but that's not my question.)


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  • You can wire it up yourself, but it should come with a plug on if it's truly 13amp. It's normal to have to take the plug off to pass the cable into the adjacent cabinet because the hole is too small for the plug!

    It seems that the regulation say max 2k watts on a 13amp plug. The reason they don't like cookers on the kitchen ring is because it doesn't leave much headroom when the oven is full on and someone boils the kettle while ironing their shirt and making toast with the dishwasher and washing machine on.

    Just noticed your current cu seems to be missing the cover to the fuses, hopefully you just removed that for the pictures.

  • Pretty sure mine is the same as this. Balls.

  • You can do it yourself. It is very easy, the terminals on the back of the cooker are basically just big screw down terminals. Just make sure there is a solid connection, don't strip off to much or too little insulation (if you're reusing the existing lead, cut it off and strip some clean, new ends), make sure you use the cable retention strap or whatever is in the new terminal block to stop it being ripped out if you need to move the cooker in future, pay attention to what colour goes where etc.

    The cover for some of the terminal blocks on newer cookers is held on using screws with a torx head. Probably to prevent stupid people from doing it.

  • That cosumer unit looks as bad as mine, though I've fitted retrofit breakers in place of the fuse wire holders so that they fail open faster. New unit is on my to-do list.

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