Home DIY

It will be very easy to see how your oven is connected.

Thanks, should have explained more clearly... I can see the current unit is wired in to a socket in the cupboard next to it (along with something else plugged in next to it, probably the extractor hood), my question was more about what happens if a newer oven needs to be wired in to the circuit directly rather than via a plug/socket. What kind of shenanigans is required then.

It's a 10+ year old MFI fitted kitchen so I don't know too much of what lies beneath/behind, but from the bits I can see by removing the kickboards it seems mostly sensible.

If I can find a new one the same size that can just be plugged in I'd be happy to do it all myself, but the info and the reviews of various Zanussi models on the John Lewis site seem contradictory.

I reckon there won't be much if anything between the rating of your existing and whatever else you buy. The biggest headache is going to be finding one with the right dimensions to fit your existing space. Find the specs on line and check the dimensions. When I had a look earlier, it mentioned an easily accessible terminal block on the back of your existing oven. You could detach the existing lead and connect that to the back of the new oven if it does not come with one. That's exactly what I did.

If the specification of the new oven says the oven uses over 3k watts then it will need a new connection and will not come with the 13amp plug on it. Some of the smaller Neff ovens are 13amp plugs, personally I prefer them to Zanussi. If you get an oven with a grill that can be operated when the cooker element is on it's unlikely to be under 3k watts.

On the Zanussi site under the details tab they give the fuse size for the ovens rated in amps, if it's 13 amp it will be fine for your socket. The socket should be marked cooker according to the latest regs.

They mostly have separate thermostats which is why the nest can't control them. Wet underfloor is more likely to be connected to the boiler which the nest is controlling.

Yes, main bonding is often missing and has just become a reg. If you had said you needed main bonding to the meter/entry point for the gas it would have been less confusing. 10mm earth bonding surface mounted! Wouldn't get that past Mrs Airhead.

You do need it done though if you want a new CU. Going back to your original question, you can do it yourself, your electrician only needs to check the continuity. It should be one piece of cable, no joining allowed, so make sure you buy enough to reach.

The biggest headache is going to be finding one with the right dimensions to fit your existing space. Find the specs on line and check the dimensions.

Old one requires a recess of H580 x W560 x D550 but the front measures more like H590 x W595 (can't measure depth easily).

An example new one ( http://www.johnlewis.com/zanussi-zoa35802xd-single-electric-oven-stainless-steel/p231656856#tabinfo-ratings ) is quoted as H589 x W594 x D568 but I guess those are outside measurements.

Sticking ZOA35802XD into the Zanussi site I get the PDF that has the recess dimensions of H580 x W560 x D550. Exactly the same as the current one.

The only problem with a straight swap is that the 7 different manuals available for this model say different things about the electrics (based on what product code you use, the model numbers are all the same).

One ( http://www.electrolux-ui.com//DocumentDownLoad.aspx?DocURL=2015\867\304357umEN.pdf ) says the ZOA35802XD is 15A and needs to connection via "oven control circuit" and not a socket.

Another ( http://www.electrolux-ui.com//DocumentDownLoad.aspx?DocURL=2011\397\217201EN.pdf )says that a 13A socket outlet is fine.

Might give John Lewis a ring tomorrow and see if they can tell me the exact PNC. I'd be willing to take a punt on it and, if it's the 13A jobbie, to stick it in myself as a straight replacement. If it's the 15A version I'd get an electrician in to suck his teeth and tell me it's going to cost a lot to get this up to code, etc.

Ta for the help Airhead and stevo_com.

If it does need a direct connection (rather than going via a socket) is that a relatively simple job for an electrician?

Wooden floors make lifting floorboards pretty tricky. One option is running it outside but still quite a ballache.

Neighbours are about to have a baby. Anyone have any experience fitting an extra layer of soundproofing to an already-plastered wall?

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/keep-safe-foam-ear-plugs/

Add a couple of layers of plasterboard, maybe with layers of greenglue between

Aside from the fact that he needs to add an extra circuit to the CU, so you need space in the CU for that. If you don't have any space in the CU then you are better off finding a 13amp cooker because the whole installation would need to be up to code in order to replace it.

Otherwise it's a question of fitting an appropriate breaker, choosing the correct size cable, adding an outlet marked cooker and wiring the cooker to it with another appropriate size cable. Testing the Zs, Insulation Resistance and RCD & filing out an Electrical Installation Certificate with test results. All in a days work if the cable run is easy.

Aside from the fact that he needs to add an extra circuit to the CU, so you need space in the CU for that.

Ha. Haha. Hahahahahaha. Nope. (See attached pic of CU).

Just got to hope it is a 13A cooker. JL says it is. AO says it is ( http://ao.com/product/zoa35802xd-zanussi-electric-single-oven-stainless-steel-24790-45.aspx ). Just some of the datasheets on the Zanussi site don't agree.

Last question (I promise). If I did get a 13A unit that's replacing the existing one with a connector block on the back for the power (so the existing cable could be reused), would I (according to the regs) require someone competent to do that job? (I know I could get away with doing it myself, but that's not my question.)

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^ ok, you need a new consumer unit

#srs

Assuming the wiring tests OK can the consumer unit be replaced on its own? (e.g. using the existing wiring?)

Or does it depend on whether the existing wiring will stretch to the new CU and, more likely, it won't so new a partial/full rewire is inevitable?

Rough idea of cost (best/worst/likely)? (3 bed flat in SW15 all on one floor)

(There are gas and water pipes are within 3m of the current CU. Reminds me, British Gas said something about the gas pipe bonding when they replaced the gas/elec meters with smart meters a few months ago, they said nothing about the old CU though.)

MixIng densities of material helps with soundproofing. You could use plasterboard backed kingspan/celotex insulation.

That's what I meant (but kingspan instead of polystyrene). Kind of annoying to cut though, compared to just insulation or just plasterboard.

Yeah - rear access mainly, but also I could think of a good way to resolve it at either side if I went wall to wall.

It's been a steep learning curve. Lots of bodging!

Yes, assuming the wiring is in spec and the circuits test ok then you can use the existing wiring. With only 4 circuits the job should be quite easy. The wiring can be extended to suit the new cu if needed, there are quite few methods for this.

Not sure on cost as it varies so widely. A simple consumer unit probably costs less than £100 in materials.

Main bonding has to be placed close to the entry point for gas/water pipes. Within 60cm from memory.

You can wire it up yourself, but it should come with a plug on if it's truly 13amp. It's normal to have to take the plug off to pass the cable into the adjacent cabinet because the hole is too small for the plug!

It seems that the regulation say max 2k watts on a 13amp plug. The reason they don't like cookers on the kitchen ring is because it doesn't leave much headroom when the oven is full on and someone boils the kettle while ironing their shirt and making toast with the dishwasher and washing machine on.

Just noticed your current cu seems to be missing the cover to the fuses, hopefully you just removed that for the pictures.

Pretty sure mine is the same as this. Balls.

I've only seen CU for Consumer Unit. Seen CSU for catheter specimen of urine though.

and the S means..?

You can do it yourself. It is very easy, the terminals on the back of the cooker are basically just big screw down terminals. Just make sure there is a solid connection, don't strip off to much or too little insulation (if you're reusing the existing lead, cut it off and strip some clean, new ends), make sure you use the cable retention strap or whatever is in the new terminal block to stop it being ripped out if you need to move the cooker in future, pay attention to what colour goes where etc.

The cover for some of the terminal blocks on newer cookers is held on using screws with a torx head. Probably to prevent stupid people from doing it.

My new cooker said in the spec it was fine for a 13A plug but came with no lead so I just took the one off the cooker it was replacing and wired it into the terminals on the new one.

If you need, I have an inline 13A connector going spare as I bought one in case I needed to extend the existing lead (before I new it was actually much more straight forward).

Garden quotes, new fence on two sides, gate, shed and base, gradient of garden modified, step down incorporated. 5k?

I don't want to spend loads, as leaseholder..