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  • I reckon there won't be much if anything between the rating of your existing and whatever else you buy. The biggest headache is going to be finding one with the right dimensions to fit your existing space. Find the specs on line and check the dimensions. When I had a look earlier, it mentioned an easily accessible terminal block on the back of your existing oven. You could detach the existing lead and connect that to the back of the new oven if it does not come with one. That's exactly what I did.

  • The biggest headache is going to be finding one with the right dimensions to fit your existing space. Find the specs on line and check the dimensions.

    Old one requires a recess of H580 x W560 x D550 but the front measures more like H590 x W595 (can't measure depth easily).

    An example new one ( http://www.johnlewis.com/zanussi-zoa35802xd-single-electric-oven-stainless-steel/p231656856#tabinfo-ratings ) is quoted as H589 x W594 x D568 but I guess those are outside measurements.

    Sticking ZOA35802XD into the Zanussi site I get the PDF that has the recess dimensions of H580 x W560 x D550. Exactly the same as the current one.

    The only problem with a straight swap is that the 7 different manuals available for this model say different things about the electrics (based on what product code you use, the model numbers are all the same).

    One ( http://www.electrolux-ui.com//DocumentDownLoad.aspx?DocURL=2015\867\304357umEN.pdf ) says the ZOA35802XD is 15A and needs to connection via "oven control circuit" and not a socket.

    Another ( http://www.electrolux-ui.com//DocumentDownLoad.aspx?DocURL=2011\397\217201EN.pdf )says that a 13A socket outlet is fine.

    Might give John Lewis a ring tomorrow and see if they can tell me the exact PNC. I'd be willing to take a punt on it and, if it's the 13A jobbie, to stick it in myself as a straight replacement. If it's the 15A version I'd get an electrician in to suck his teeth and tell me it's going to cost a lot to get this up to code, etc.

    Ta for the help Airhead and stevo_com.

    If it does need a direct connection (rather than going via a socket) is that a relatively simple job for an electrician?

  • Aside from the fact that he needs to add an extra circuit to the CU, so you need space in the CU for that. If you don't have any space in the CU then you are better off finding a 13amp cooker because the whole installation would need to be up to code in order to replace it.

    Otherwise it's a question of fitting an appropriate breaker, choosing the correct size cable, adding an outlet marked cooker and wiring the cooker to it with another appropriate size cable. Testing the Zs, Insulation Resistance and RCD & filing out an Electrical Installation Certificate with test results. All in a days work if the cable run is easy.

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