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• #75252
An elegant solution! Thanks for the help, mdcc.
Would be preferable to have gears and not barf my lungs up on the hills. -
• #75253
.
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• #75254
These could work? Old cannondales have the same thing.
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• #75255
That looks promising, thanks russ.
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• #75256
Otherwise could you not just run a long threaded shaft through the fame and use a pair of nuts on cable bosses, instead of the usual bolts?
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• #75257
Absolutely, could do that, thanks. Whether I get round to it, on what was meant to be a dirt cheap spares-box build, is another matter. That'll learn me not to buy bright shiny things on eBay.
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• #75258
Long threaded screw to hold bosses together and also epoxy glue between bosses and frame (sand off paint/anodising first). Dirt cheap and reliable. Final solution!
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• #75259
Yep, gonna go with the threaded screw/shaft and some nuts. Ta for all the suggestions.
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• #75260
any bike shops in walking proximity from NW1 (mornington crescent) who'll be able to cut fork steerer? Giant shop is a bit further to walk from/to office.
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• #75261
Just buy a hacksaw?
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• #75262
have one do I need spacial blade? Dont have a guide .. 2 stems?
^ see, a noob!
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• #75263
If you're careful, with a wet rag on the floor to catch carbon resin, wear a mask, and slowly and gently cut the steerer with the old two stem solution.
A vice is greatly recommend for this (carbon blade aren't necessary if you're careful).
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• #75264
considering buying a frame with a bent fork, considering that this probably occurred in an accident what else should I look at on the frame to ensure it's otherwise ship-shape?
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• #75265
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• #75266
Look at the top tube and down tube in the headtube junction, check to see any ripple, deformation, crack etc.
Luhged can be hard to tell as it could crack along the line of the lug, so cleaning this and a q-tip for close inspection.
Lastly, even if it look alright, putting a new fork in and wheels will show the clearance between the tyres and downtube, it should not be very close to the downtube (unless jys those old track frameS).
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• #75267
Steel?
Check under the top and down tubes (where they meet the head tube) for a ripple or bulge.
Assuming the forks are steel, you might be able to bend them back.
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• #75268
I've cut carbon steerers with 24tpi blades and lived
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• #75269
Wrap a bit of electrical tape round the bit you're cutting.
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• #75270
Specialized saw blade where a regular iron saw would do?
CSB
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• #75271
Am I right in thinking that the brake pads that come with new Ultegra groupsets are now carbon-specific? I have alloy rims. These aren't safe to use are they? Any recommendations on what to replace them with? Also, are the OEM ones of use to others?
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• #75272
for carbon or alu rims?
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• #75273
Swissstop or Koolstop.
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• #75274
@Sumo Alloy.
@Scilly.Suffolk These? Will they fit in Ultegra shoes?
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/swissstop-flash-pro-green-alloy-rim-brake-pads/
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• #75275
Yes on both counts.
Sounds like something a machine shop could knock up in 10 minutes, even if there's no off the shelf option
http://apexfasteners.com/fasteners/screw-machine-products/spacers-and-standoffs/standoffs/female-female-standoffs/round-standoffs