Anyone know anything about disc brakes?

that might be the older version? I have this

Hmmm. Yeah. The bleed nipple doobry is quite useful. Wonder why they got rid of it.

Anyhoo. There are a couple of places where your brake can spill a bit of fluid and not completely stop working.

i - bleed port. Check it's tight. Torque it to spec as per the manual.
ii - hose entry. Check it's tight, torque it to spec if possible. It might be that when they shortened the hose they didn't use new fittings which can sometimes result in leaks. If this is the case there's little you can do until you get somewhere that has new fittings and can do a bleed.

If it's leaking from anywhere else - piston, caliper join - failure is usually more dramatic and immediate.

that is what I thought, piston + seal failure would have been instantly noticeable. I will just keep an eye on it and not squeeze too hard (glad its the rear tbh). fittings should have all been new so unsure what could have gone wrong. will take it back to mud dock next week. thanks for advice!

I am new to disc brakes and it sounds like the disc is rubbing on the pad on the front when the wheel spins round. I am sure I haven't aligned it properly but not sure what else to do when doing up the QR, any ideas? This is on the pine mountain

I really wish I could be helpful given that its you but I am obliged to post this:

sorry

£50/hr labour

To replace a bottom bracket?!?

Ed - you are recommending wiping the pad (the friction surface that clamps the disc) with oil? That sounds unwise to me.

Isopropyl oil specifically, and after you wipe it dry, sand down the pads.

if performance doesn't improved, the pads is too contaminated to be saved.

Grab your smartphone, open a blank white background (or this webpages), put it under your calipers while looking from above, see how much gap there is between the rotor and pads.

With cable pull calipers, you might either need to reposition the calipers or move the static pads a bit further out.

With hydraulic, clamp down the brake levers hard while the bolt holding the calipers is slightly loose, then carefully tighten them up again, check with your phone again to ensure there's an even gap on both side (with both pads hitting at the same time).

Lastly, your rotors could be a little out of true (very common), easy to do, just bend it a bit with a screwdrivers as a wedge, or your hands.

Isopropyl isn't oil.

trust me.. I didn't know that when I gave it to them (only giving it to them because they are a cannondale dealer). fitting a bb30 bb + hollowgrams and bleeding brakes.

"it took me 3 hours but I couldn't charge you for 3 so will only charge you for 2. That will be £100"

at least they said they would have a look at both things again after I had ridden on them - which they fucking better. BB creaks slightly when cranking out the saddle (inevitable) and a leaky rear disc - cool

Should have taken then to Cadence in Bath

"it took me 3 hours but I couldn't charge you for 3 so will only charge you for 2. That will be £100"

Blimey. Did they give you an estimate up front?

Isopropyl isn't oil.

No it isn't, you're right, it somehow sound more correct when said "isopropyl oil", it's a deaf thing.

There's a significant difference between Isopropyl Alcohol, a cleaning product, and oil- a lubricant. If you wipe your brake pads with oil don't expect to stop, at all.

I expect I am coming across as a douche here but this is not something to get wrong Ed- you give a lot of advice, this time it was dangerous and could result in a nasty injury. Brakes are, in this case, possibly death.

I fitted and bled my own Shimano hydros in less time than that in my kitchen, never having seen or used them before. I haven't died yet and they're not leaking.

Edit: #boastpost

Yeah...I've heard differing accounts of how labour intensive they are. Glad you found it straight forward!

Moderately proud of myself for doing a good bleed on an old Magura Marta - that doesn't have a bleed port - and managed to do it without major spillage.

Remember the time when there was a bit of oil on your rims but they stopped anyway with great rim brakes? .. Good timez

Remember that time when there was a bit of water on your rims and it made stopping take loads longer?

Owning a disc brake equipped bike now, I can honestly say I will never buy another road bike that isn't equipped with them.

There was some swearing involved, but they turned out alright :)

Only for fatties tbf

oh don't I know it.. time was of the essence though. It was a week before going to mallorca and I didn't have a bike - I just wanted it done, and done well so there were no hydro explosions on the plane and no traumas when actually riding (surrendering to mechanical failures and tracking down open bike shops during the easter period in spain is a nightmare). I try and prepare for the worst but bringing a bleed kit with is a bit extreme..

knowing it would have cost me £100 I would have done it myself, I have bled my SLX brakes numerous times without a problem, and fitting the BB would have been fine too as kindly @mrJL had leant me some tools

@Howard no estimation of cost at all, I thought it might be £50 max - I mean I had all the parts + oil etc.. really annoying to be honest - needless to say I won't ever be going back to them for labour, and have also made friends aware of the labour charges

Seems like the kind of thing that should be charged by the job, not hour, and you should know the cost upfront.

There's a significant difference between Isopropyl Alcohol, a cleaning product, and oil- a lubricant. If you wipe your brake pads with oil don't expect to stop, at all.

I understood this, just mistakenly said oil is all, and again as I said before, it's a deaf thing, which unfortunately tend to be common that people heavily mocked me for (like for example, saying turning off the candle instead of putting out the candle).

No such thing as Isopropyl oil either way.