Anyone know anything about disc brakes?

How dramatic is the difference in feel between Yokozuna & the goodridge/jagwire stuff? Enough to be worth the massive price difference? Buying cables for TRP spyres...

Probably not. Between normal outer and 'compressionless' though, yes. I have spyres set up with the jagwire Kevlar stuff. Not at all spongy, very smooth and no drag (lever returns without a problem)

Alright if I were to consider disc then show me a 700c rim that weighs less than Kinlin XR200 (alu) or Zipp 303 (carbon).

At least provide the weight of those...

385g both

I see what you're getting at but disc brakes are not really a weight weenie choice compared to rim brakes? It seems a bit of a pointless argument to me.
But I understand what you're getting at, regarding the lack of braking surface and therefore it should be lighter. People don't choose disc brakes so they can have a lighter rim...

5 minute search gives

Stans Crest 380g (24.4mm)
AX LIGHTNESS ULTRA 28 325g (26mm)
American Classic DISC 101 381g (25mm)
Reynolds Attack Carbon Clincher 380g

Also Whisky's new Carbon Goat 29er rim has a 28.5mm outer width and is only 395g... :o

Edit: but yeah, what Pete said...

But also that ^

My rear brake lever (105) has developed about 5mm of play before caliper engages, is it just a case of strip and clean the caliper (spyre) and retension the cable? Running jagwire cable.

For zero total weight difference, moving weight from the rim to the hub should improve acceleration and braking.

Sure you don't just need to wind the pads in a little?

It was noticeable for me (difference between Jagwire and Yokozuna), have yet to tried the Goodridge however.

Sound like your housing is bedded in TBH.

Check how loose the cable feel on the calipers, it just sound like you need to tension the cable again.

@andy_k that would just lead to more travel on the lever, this is actual play before cable is pulled.
@edscoble maybe I could just retension, but had a quick look last night, and its pretty shitty back there, so a clean can't do any harm then retension.

play before cable is pulled.

I've only had this when the stiction/friction in the cable was too much for the caliper spring to overcome.

Ah, did notice on this mornings commute that the lever is stiff once cable is pulling, so maybe a regrease or a new cable is needed. If cable is required can Yokozuna be bought separately, as I don't need shifter cable?

3rd day in mallorca and I notice a slight smearing of oil next to my brake caliper.. only the 5th ride on these brakes from new so obviously gutted (and yes I paid mud dock £50/hr labour fee to bleed them). However it doesnt feel as if there is any loss of power whatsoever..

I dont want to fuck anything up but is there anything I should tighten (bleed screw..?) have left as is currently and will obviously be taking it easier on the rear brake. front brake is perfect

wash it down with isopropyl alcohol and then look for where the oil comes out.

what QR are you using on the front? i'd want a secure one, not a lightweight one for a front wheel

Replace QR ASAP, they're O.K. on rims brake bicycles, but disc have too much power for those quick release to properly hold onto.

tighten the little nut a bit (as pictured), then as James said, wipe it down with alcohol (take out the pads, wipe that down with the oil, then sand it down a bit to ensure there's very little contamination occur).

Oh hai @howard

Out of interest why does this one have the bleed nipple but the one in the photo on the C10 just have grub screw?

Why don't you have the normal bleed nipple as in the image @edscoble posted?

the nut by the hose or the grub screw? thanks for advice. thought these QRs would be fine, run very similar ti mt zoom ones on my xc bike too

Replace QR ASAP, they're O.K. on rims brake bicycles, but disc have too much power for those quick release to properly hold onto.

tighten the little nut a bit (as pictured), then as James said, wipe it down with alcohol (take out the pads, wipe that down with the oil, then sand it down a bit to ensure there's very little contamination occur).

Ed - you are recommending wiping the pad (the friction surface that clamps the disc) with oil? That sounds unwise to me.

dont worry, I know better than to wipe pads with oil - and i am sure ed didnt mean that