"SONIC boom" (aka Yokel-Motion 2.0)

(EDIT: Page Fail + back to that hub...)
Those hubs do have flats/bearing seats inboard of each bearing.
Whacking one end of the axle will push out (and probably ruin) the opposing bearing.

I re-spaced a friend's rear Formula hub to 130mm using the plain axle method, but since that alone is not as solid as having the inboard side of each bearing pressing against a proper seat, I made a spacer out of OD12mm/ID10mm stainless tube. It has worked pretty well, and the bearings are still smooth after a few months commuting (rider is 85kg-ish, non-skidder), but it's likely the bearings will wear more quickly, because the inner diameter of the bearing is resting on a thread rather than a seat of correct tolerance, so there's more potential for play to develop if the cone nuts you use aren't squashing the bearings together against the spacer.

Just measured the total width of the shell of the BDW rear that @Borek sent me; 94.7mm.
Bearings are 8.0mm deep so you'll need a 78.7mm spacer. I still have some stainless tube left so PM if you want me to post.

Outstanding work!

Thanks for taking the time to write that.

I will take a spacer please: PM incoming...

[cough]

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Does this mean you have some Vuka clips going spare?

Taking a leaf out of Hippy's book: chub-up and buy speed...

#drugtesting

Yarp, but I've got to pony up ~£100 for Fibrelyte spacers and a bridge first!

Scultura asked the same, but he only wants the clips and risers (50mm).

I'd rather sell the clips with the base bar, otherwise I'm going to be stuck with that. Not sure about the extensions yet.

I've got a 90mm, -17° Zipp SC stem if you like matching collar & cuffs.

I might be interested in the clips, risers and base bar as a set if you want to post.

Postage is no problem; I'll keep you informed too.

Assuming I get paid before Eggmas, I'll order the risers tomorrow and I'd expect at least a two week lead time from Fibrelyte.

The tricky bit is these which you need 4x (2x set) to fill in the recesses in the base bar to allow you to use the spacers.

Ah.

I missed that first time around and only ordered one set (two plates).

But I'm a little puzzled now, as each plate is 1.55mm thick (so two would be 3.1mm) and not 2mm (ie 4mm for two).

@mdcc_tester suggested getting a 3mm bridge to keep the stack in 5mm increments, which indicates one plate only.

OG Ventus don't need them I think.

OG Ventus don't need them I think.

The first Ventus didn't have them, and people complained about the risers twisting. Mine have a conversion plate glued to the top of the wing so that the castellated risers will fit, but they don't have the deep socket which the risers sit down into on the Mk2

... add the spacer stack, including the 2mm for the conversion plates. You might want to get the bridge made from 3mm stock to make everything add up to an integer multiple of 5.

Perhaps the mkI only need one pair of conversion plates?

But mkII definitely need two pairs? EDIT see below

If so then we'd need 2mm bridges...

Perhaps the mkI only need one pair of conversion plates?

They do, but I think they are only 1mm thick. I've got to take it apart sometime, so I'll have a measure.

There's a certain amount of wiggle room in the stack height, the screws don't bottom out if they are the 'right' length, I suspect that 5mm increments on the screw length would allow you to have proper thread engagement but no bottoming out for the full continuum of riser stacks.

All this mechanical talk. You know this is LFGSS, there hasn't been a picture of your fixeh in 6 pages

I should probably have done this in the first place, but I've just offered the plates up: two of them completely fill the well, from which I assume that the risers sit on, rather than in the well?

So I do need another pair which will cost me another EUR12.50 in shipping.

FFS

I've measured them again and two are just over 3mm: is a 2mm bridge adequate?

You've had cranks, hammers and GIFs!

If I get around to replacing my card reader, you might get a teaser later...

I assume that the risers sit on, rather than in the well?

Yes, because my risers have a deeper chord than the stock ones.

is a 2mm bridge adequate?

Check your thread engagement, if there's enough to use a 3mm bridge I'd stick with that. The Mk1 had one set of converter plates added without needing longer screws.

In the end, you're the one with the Mk2 bars in front of you, take measurements and see what will work.

I meant is 2mm thick enough for a bridge, aside from the question of engagement.

It sounds like you think 3mm is preferable.

Or is 3mm a bridge too far?

It sounds like you think 3mm is preferable.

Good, my message got across. 2mm would be better than nothing.

is 3mm a bridge too far?

Probably not, my bridge is 5mm :-)

Given my current form, jumping out of a plane is my only hope of seeing a respectable time...

I ordered some more plates... from Winstanley...

They won't be in stock and it'll take an age to get my money back, but they're less than half the price of ordering direct from 3T.

For future reference, pics of what they do are attached.

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