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• #75077
Will you damage aliums by riding on them with regular shoes?
I'm used to using look keos and they held up well against pub/shopping trips in my trainers. -
• #75078
Don't think there's any difference, women specific one come in smaller sizes (much like most "women specific" frames).
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• #75079
If the liner can fit in that tiny house, then you're sorted.
It's a good idea to run it from the plastic cable guide on the BB to the very top of the derailleur clamp, but ensure to leave enough room for it to shift to the largest chainring.
If it doesn't fit however, it's best to just spray GT85 through the hole if possible every once in a while, but it's rare for it to get murky enough to hindrance shifting performance.
Alternatively, I may recommend good mudguard to keep your drivetrain from getting sillily murky.
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• #75080
Yeah a liner can fit. Actually the frame came with liners in there already but I removed them thinking they were just guides to get the cables from A to B (internal routing). Will search my boxes to see if I kept them.
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• #75081
I just removed liners from someone's bike.
They were running from the DT bosses all the way to the derailleurs.
The shifting action had pulled the liner away from the long-tailed ferrule at the boss and water had gathered at the BB (lowest point).
The cable had rusted and one strand detached, which stuck in the housing and threw the indexing out.
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• #75082
I've seen other variations, could be good for emergencies!
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• #75083
What makes surgical spirit so over the handlebar going good in cleaning rims?
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• #75084
^ I've been fussball'd
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• #75085
I've seen this. Can't find it anywhere in the shops (physical or online).
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• #75086
I guess you're right. A catastrophic failure is a cracked inner ring leading to loss of pressure. A maintained shock/fork is likely not have that issue.
I guess as long as I do a quick oil swap and seal inspection/swap before big trips it should be fine. Fox does specify 25hr service intervals, but I've read plenty of stories where people push past that without much issue. I make sure I clean stanchions, add a line of oil to the seals and cycle the forks/shock to push dirt out. Should be enough I guess.
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• #75087
Vaseline
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• #75088
Well nothing lasts forever right. I've given it a try and I'll see if the same happens to me
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• #75089
The equivalent women's 41 will be slightly smaller in every aspect. Narrower, shorter etc.
Try 'em though.
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• #75090
I'm "refurbishing" / "servicing" Shimano RX100 brifters, thanks to very useful tutorial found on YouTube explaining how to take them apart and back together.
Because cosmetically the aluminum parts are not very good, and because it's for my recently repainted Roberts, I want, while they are apart to polish them.
Before doing so, I need to remove the grey metal looking paint (I don't think it's anodized, could be wrong...) and in the past, using oven cleaner solution on parts never worked for me...
Any good solution saving me hours of fine sanding please? -
• #75091
I need to remove the grey metal looking paint (I don't think it's anodized, could be wrong...)
You're right, they're painted. Media blast would be quick, but buying new levers would be cheaper if you don't already have your own blast cabinet :-) If you have a Dremel, some wire brush wheels would probably eliminate much of the hard work. I'll leave you to find a supplier who isn't either ridiculously expensive or in China.
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• #75092
Got a square taper NDS crank stuck. Really doesn't want to shift. What to do?
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• #75093
Bigger tools.
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• #75094
In the past I have put as much pressure on the extractor tool as I darewith the bike on its side. Then the fun bit.....if you can keep the pressure on whilst you slowly pour a hot/boiling kettle of water on it. Or get someone else to do either the tensioning or the pouring. It might then pop off for you into you blistered hands. Alternative sources of heat might also work but less exciting.
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• #75095
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• #75096
Got a square taper NDS crank stuck. Really doesn't want to shift.
Have you stripped the extractor threads yet? If not, you're not trying hard enough :-)
I've yet to see a crank which can resist my gear puller/bearing splitter, this pattern is best for cranks but the ones with two or three fingers have been used successfully by other people, although they tend to mark the back of the crank more.
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• #75097
You're right, they're painted. Media blast would be quick, but buying new levers would be cheaper if you don't already have your own blast cabinet :-) If you have a Dremel, some wire brush wheels would probably eliminate much of the hard work. I'll leave you to find a supplier who isn't either ridiculously expensive or in China.
Noted, thanks!
Will have a go with my dremel... I have a few wire brush wheels, but the cheap ones from a set of end bit from Lidl, noticed they wear off even quicker than the originals! -
• #75098
how does this work?
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• #75099
Fucking magnet.
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• #75100
how does this work?
Assemble with the jaws behind the crank and the centre screw pushing the BB spindle, keep tightening the screw until the crank separates from the spindle.
Some advice and ideas needed please!
How do you lock your bike and trailer? I have a Thule Cheetah so the wheels and towing bar are easily removable without tools but only if you know how. All QRs on the bike have been replaced with hex skewers.
Cheers!