Any question answered...

They would have Campag groupsets but used these non-Campag levers because they were very good at not slipping.

Suntour Powershift or Simplex Retrofriction ratchet levers.

@mdcc_tester 'twas Simplex, and I was right about Millar.

http://www.classiclightweights.co.uk/components/simplex-retrofriction-components.html

Cheers :)

Now that I've got my roadracing bike built and ready.. turning thoughts to the next project.

Want a frame with huge clearances, disk ready, can take racks and mudguards. Will be used on and off road, but still needs to be fast. Going to be used in the 2017 TCR.

Suggestions?

I've got a Mekk Poggio 1.5 (2013 model). The rear mech hanger has come off, as the screws holding it in don't seem to have been long enough (hanger was replaced when I had it serviced, as I'd managed to bend it and the rear mech).

Any idea where I might be able to get longer screws from? I've tried Mekk, and what they've sent me doesn't look a lot longer that those I had in it...

You will almost certainly find something on ebay. Do you know what you have now?.

Le Manfriend is over 90KG and hasn't broken his square tapers yet.

He's used sugino messenger/campag copies so not exactly mega high end either.

It's more crank flex you may notice but I doubt modern stronglight/miche or sugino 65/omnomnoms do.

Square tapers.

I'll break them, or I should use them?

@JWestland yeah, I wouldn't be super worried about them. I used 8sp Chorus cranks on my fixed for ages, mashing a huge gear. It's more the ISIS BB is an unknown quantity. But I've already installed the the square on my girlfriend's bike now so I guess we'll see!

Square tapers are still common as murk, you can get an SKF one that'll last decades, or the good old Shimano UN55.

I've got both http://gearmechhanger.com/epages/950001649.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/950001649/Products/D87 (ordered from Wiggle, put on by Evans) and one that looks very much like http://gearmechhanger.com/epages/950001649.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/950001649/Products/GH-080 (sent to me by Mekk)

The issue with both is that the bolts supplied only seem to grip by about a single turn, leaving loads of thread on the mech. This lead to one of the bolts having fallen out whilst riding, and the other being held in just by the quick release, and falling out when I popped the wheel out to fix a puncture.

Really really fed up of not being able to ride now.

I've read of SKFs having some installation tolerance issues...I heard there were two versions of the BB produced? Have you seen/read anything about that?

I only have one and they still have plenty of life left after 5 years continous used (from touring to commuting), not heard of installation tolerance issues.

UN55 is cheap and easy to get, and last for quite some time too.

M4 countersunk screws of an undefined length but maybe 10-12mm.

Buy some of these and choose the length you need.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M3-M4-Metric-A4-Stainless-Steel-Countersunk-Slotted-Head-Machine-Screws-/371149686761?var=&hash=item566a3ec7e9:m:mUbPiXFj4H7wV1bUM2SflqQ

Or probably better with hex here http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M4-A2-COUNTERSUNK-CSK-SOCKET-CAP-ALLEN-BOLT-WITH-FREE-NYLOC-NUTS-SCREWS-HEX-/200950009980?var=&hash=item2ec98dd07c:m:mIQYhE5GvzDtB6mRK0y5Y4w

Time for a really, really silly question from myself, google couldn't humour me.

I use a full suspension bike for some rugged bikepacking applications. The three areas of concern for me are primarily:

1. Front fork seals (not so much stanchion seals, but air pressure seals) - the risk of these failing can be reduced through routine maintenance before a long trip
   
2. Rear triangle bushings - routine maintenance, potentially swap to needle bearings?
   
3. Rear shock seals - this one is a bit more concerning, I feel a collapsed rear shock is worse than a collapsed fork.
   
   

Has anyone actually machined an "emergency" solid piece of metal, hard polymer or something that can be put in place of the rear shock to turn the bike into an "emergency hardtail"? I guess the weight penalty for something like this is pretty significant, as you would need tools to replace it with the collapsed shock as well as the actual piece itself.

What does everyone else do to minimise the risks of air shock/fork failure on remote trips? Is it truly a case of "use a hardtail and coil fork"??

Thanks, ordered some at 10mm, as the current ones seem to be 8mm. I'll let you know how it goes...

"use a hardtail and coil fork"

You could use a coil shock if you're that worried about air-shock seals failing.

Shoe question here and a bit of a silly one but prob worth asking anyway -

I am a mens size 41 in giro and looking to invest in some decent road shoes, Is there any reason why I couldn't buy the Giro empice Womens in or 42? I understand the shoe is designed with a "womens-specific-fit" thinner ankle area and tighter fit.

The colourway would match my anchor perfectly :-P

Try them on.

Got these in the end - cheaper and completely unbranded.

Score!

I have a spare of the velochampion ones as I decided to just keep the normal mount on the fixed commuter as I don't need navigation.

Nice, I picked up three because most of my bikes have a computer on the stem and cross-top levers. Also, they're only fractionally more expensive than buying standard mounts!

Try not to think about how hideously complicated modern mtb hardware is

I suspect your hydraulic disc brakes are more susceptible to catastrophic failure than an air Spring although some solo air implementations have terrible design flaws - I'm looking at you Cannondale

Any clever ways to stop muck getting down the exit hole for the front derailleur cable?

No mudguards

1 Attachment

liner? One of those sealed cable system ..

How does that work? liner from cable entry point to frame up to just short of cable clamping point to the derailleur? What keeps the liner from moving when shifting, friction against the BB cable guide?

Edit nvm, found a video showing how it works. I'll give that a try. Thanks