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• #106827
or try a positve angle stem
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• #106828
Forget the bike and buy a lovely Gretsch USA custom snare instead...
otherwise, get a positive rise stem +6º would be fine and then some nice wide wheels with some 28mm tyres. Even try some cheap swept back bars:
http://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/HBOOSNOR/on-one-snorky-handlebarUltimately, the sensible option is drops with hoods and brakes.
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• #106829
Taking a break from enthusing over my Raleigh project to give my gf's bike a much-needed upgrade from its shitty Sora and and barely-functioning cantis. She's going to be outbraking me into every corner.
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• #106830
I have more than enough drums!
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• #106831
will be looking for considerably higher risers before going the positive stem route... just so ugly!
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• #106832
Took the 75s off my Bolt to put on my new bike, replaced them with Campy pista cranks, the only problem is now I'm having clearance issues with the chainstay and NDS crank arm. Would it be so terrible to put a slight thicker washer under the crank bolt to put the crank a millimeter off the stays? It's really a very small amount--enough to rub, but not enough to stop it, but it gets worse the more I torque it on (up to spec of course)
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• #106833
What you are suggesting won't change the crank position. What Bb is in there? Depending on what model campag cranks you have, the newer ones are for 111mm axles, where as 75's are build for a 109mm axle. If it isn't clearing you probably need a bb with a longer axle
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• #106834
It's the right BB it's a centaur 111.
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• #106835
Mmmmmm...
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• #106836
Campy pista cranks, the only problem is now I'm having clearance issues with the chainstay and NDS crank arm
That's a feature, not a bug. Campag Pista have the narrowest Q of any current track crank. You can dent your stay or file your crank :-)
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• #106837
Very nice!
Mind me asking where you got them?
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• #106839
Inspired by @larsenroad's mint Cruz and all the disc brake chat in the Cannondale thread making me jealous, I caved and bought a Giant TCX from the local classifieds.
Threw some old pedals and a saddle from my track bike on to roll it around the drive, but it feels like the fit is perfect. 105 5800, TRP Spyre cable discs, big fat tyres. The cranks are fucking grim 6700s with a Hope NW 38t, but I've also got the front mech and two FSA rings (@Dick's favourite) in 46/34.
To do:
New saddle and sort the fit; a Fabric Scoop probably, but a Romin if finances allow. Maybe some slightly shorter / shallower bars. Would like to replace the cranks with some Rival 1X, or a proper 5800 crank to match the group.
Disc Brakes - What the fuck are these all about? Will have to learn how they work. Work well slowing me down, but won't skid the wheels and feel very grabby atm. What is the opinion on TRP Spyres? If Ed mentions compressionless cables I'm going to murder him.
Repaint - It's an alu frame, so I might strip it and do something silly. Black to polished fade with silver paint flecks? Heat tempered metal effect? Snow camo paint? Primer grey with rainbow reflective decals?
Wheels - Needs 25 x 60mm carbon from china asap.
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• #106840
That is a real beauty, in so many ways!
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• #106841
Decals? I had Mario who does the LFGSS stickers cut my design in vinyl.
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• #106842
@MechaMorgan: Cool, that's a nice frame. Looking forward to see how it turns out.
For paint, something like this would be fun, but with alu in the middle: https://no.pinterest.com/pin/163959242660274243/
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• #106843
The cranks are fucking grim 6700s with a Hope NW 38t
Nothing wrong with them unless you are talking aesthetics and yes they should be black.
I have the 4 bolt woftooth on 6800, they look good IMO.
And yes you should paint it black on black. Silca frame pump.
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• #106844
Frame pump?! It's a cross bike you plonker, not an 'all road'*.
Yeah, the cranks look awful so will have to go. My dad is interested in using it too so will have to see if he wants 2 chain rings... My head says 5800 but my heart says Rotor.
Quite tempted to strip the frame and use snow-camo vinyl on the forks. My last attempt at vinyl wrapping was awful, but there's much more flat area on these forks and I'll nail it this time.
*thats coming next and will be custom.
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• #106845
5800 and black absolute black or wolftooth chainring is right up your alley no?
Tbh 6800 grey and black chainring are a bit of a 'mismatch'.
Framepump .. obvs troll was obvs
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• #106846
Ahhhhh you got me. Consider me trolled.
If I bought a 5800, might as well just keep both chainrings on ¯_(ツ)_/¯ never hurts to have more options.
Loads of fire tracks and bridalways near me, can't wait to rip em.
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• #106847
painted my 8bar sscx beater in seasons colours
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• #106848
Apologies for the crossposting, just finished this (may still need to trim the chain)
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• #106849
Very smart, fenders on the way?
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• #106850
No room unfortunately. Unless converted to 650b, although there's no chainstay bridge so slightly skeptical.
If drops/hoods don't work cos of your lower back, I suspect cos internetbikefit too much reach/drop. (f.e. a 49*53 is common but I need a 50 or 51 square...)
If you don't get a frame with a stupid* carbon steerer you can not cut it down much and that will give you height. Perhaps you can get away with a 58 square and raise the quill stem/one with an uncut steerer if it must not be modern?
F.e.: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Holdsworth-Replica-Fixie-Bicycle-Frame-/131748880116?hash=item1eacd85ef4:g:ZLMAAOSwoBtW4e6Z and get a crabon fork for it and leave steerer high?
Or http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vintage-Ellis-Briggs-Track-Frame-And-Forks-Leroica-Reynolds-531-/231784908003?hash=item35f77504e3:g:hKwAAOSwk1JWcDo1 and a high quill. (Nitto does them, ppl do complain about quill stiffness though)
Most frames seem to be longer than higher...I've seen customs though in the classifieds here, and I believe Ueno had a short/high frame so worth an ask too. Good luck :)
*stupid yes as you can't use more than 3 cm spacers.