Any question answered...

Thanks all! It seems I have three options: heat, cold or chemicals.

With cold you then need concussion to break the bond: it seems to me that there is a risk the extensions will become brittle and break.

Heat would involve the purchase of a hot air gun (and a long extension lead).

Acetone seems like my best bet at the moment as a) I have some and b) I can rig up some kind of stand and leave it on the fire escape.

F5 fail on my part.

Boiling water is the most straightforward and least hazardous, but from what I've read I don't think it will be hot enough.

Acetone is suggested by more than one source, so I'm hopeful...

No idea if it would actually work though.

Acetone is suggested by more than one source, so I'm hopeful...

You won't be after you've tried it. The whole point of epoxy adhesives is that they are highly resistant to aliphatic and aromatic alkanes, alkenes, alcohols, aldehydes and ketones. You need a chlorinated solvent, and dichloromethane seems to be the most favoured for softening cured epoxies.

What's the strongest way of bonding two threaded aluminium parts? I have a hub without lockring threads and some sort of adaptor purchased off @mdcc_tester some years ago. Some car forums mention JB Weld as a permanent fix.

2 part epoxy by the sound of it.

I see what you did there.

Still seem to be available out here (Canada) as 'Classic Alox'.
Might be worth it to search under that name.

What's the strongest way of bonding two threaded aluminium parts?

Assemble dry and then ride in the winter :-)

The adapter is tapped for grub screws, cone or cup points will wreck your hub threads but they will stop the adapter from rotating. If you drill into the hub through the holes and use dog point grub screws, you'll have a secure attachment which is also removable.

Acetone won't work. MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone) might, provided you keep it warm and leave the parts submerged for a long, long time. It's really, really pongy stuff though. Worse than acetone, by many orders of magnitude.

That's the one! Couldn't remember what it was called! Thanks.

Acetone won't work. MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone) might

If you use systematic names, you're substituting butanone for propanone and expecting a different result. To me, this seem unduly optimistic.

....cross posted from touring thread....

I have come to the point where I can purchase a brand new bicycle for the first time in my life. I have two options which I am considering and I think at this point it comes down to which is the most suitable for light weight, short touring once or twice a year. The bicycle will also be for a few sportives and commuting.

I can go for an aluminium frame with higher spec of components or a carbon frame with slightly lower spec components. Will a carbon frame ala Cannondale Synapes HiMod dislike the weight of extra kit? Through bike-packing dry-bags from Alpkit I would have a front 13L roll up and something similar around the saddle.

Any comments to help me vere my decision either way are welcomed.

I'm after a good set of pedals, that can take a toe clip.
Or,
a decent pair of clipless shoes that can be worn every day.

What's your recommendations?

I just thought the grub screw might wiggle loose over time and as I'm not planning on using the wheel for anything else, I thought I might use an as permanent solution as possible. Two-part epoxy, a drill and dog point grub screws then?

Grub screws and thread lock.

Well, I've tried MEK on carbon/epoxy parts and it does definitely soften the surface of the epoxy resin. Whether or not it would be enough to break the bond in this case is another matter.

Two-part epoxy, a drill and dog point grub screws then?

Epoxy and cup points if you want belt and braces, no need to drill for dog points if you don't plan to dismantle it.

I saw this too! Was really funny. Can't remember the context though!

Will a carbon frame ala Cannondale Synapes HiMod dislike the weight of extra kit?

Unless you plan on carrying 40kg it probably won't care. It's still a race bike though and has no provisions for mudguards or other attachments. For commuting and light touring the question is not whether you'll break the tool, but whether it is the right tool for the job.

Clipless shoes that look like regular shoes are, I think without exception, hideous.

So, I had a pair of MKS Sylvan Touring pedals which were pretty good, and take toe clips. More balleur option is White Industries Urban Platform Pedal. There's a cheaper option of the MKS Urban Platform which are a rip off of the White Industries.

However, if you want to keep your regular shoes nice, then straps with plastic bmx pedals might work if you can bear the aesthetic. Cheap option would be something like http://www.amazon.co.uk/TOOGOO-Bicycle-Double-Velcro-Straps/dp/B00JVJFAEW with http://www.customriders.com/prodshow.asp?prodid=11212&gclid=CJrM8c6DxcsCFSQW0wodnpoAcQ

https://kylethewilson.wordpress.com/2012/05/27/diy-wall-bike-hanger/

I have Shimano RT82 shoes - takes two bolt cleats (recessed so you can walk) but doesn't look like a MTB shoe. I think a few others on here have them too?

That was a great and very inciteful answer. Thanks very much for the time and effort.

I wish I had the money for the white industries pedals, they look great but alas, even if I did have the money I don't think I could justify them.

The mks urban platform look like the best bet.

Quite right Howard,

I am considering alternative options now. Thank you for the response. W