(EDIT: Page Fail + back to that hub...)
Those hubs do have flats/bearing seats inboard of each bearing.
Whacking one end of the axle will push out (and probably ruin) the opposing bearing.
I re-spaced a friend's rear Formula hub to 130mm using the plain axle method, but since that alone is not as solid as having the inboard side of each bearing pressing against a proper seat, I made a spacer out of OD12mm/ID10mm stainless tube. It has worked pretty well, and the bearings are still smooth after a few months commuting (rider is 85kg-ish, non-skidder), but it's likely the bearings will wear more quickly, because the inner diameter of the bearing is resting on a thread rather than a seat of correct tolerance, so there's more potential for play to develop if the cone nuts you use aren't squashing the bearings together against the spacer.
(EDIT: Page Fail + back to that hub...)
Those hubs do have flats/bearing seats inboard of each bearing.
Whacking one end of the axle will push out (and probably ruin) the opposing bearing.
I re-spaced a friend's rear Formula hub to 130mm using the plain axle method, but since that alone is not as solid as having the inboard side of each bearing pressing against a proper seat, I made a spacer out of OD12mm/ID10mm stainless tube. It has worked pretty well, and the bearings are still smooth after a few months commuting (rider is 85kg-ish, non-skidder), but it's likely the bearings will wear more quickly, because the inner diameter of the bearing is resting on a thread rather than a seat of correct tolerance, so there's more potential for play to develop if the cone nuts you use aren't squashing the bearings together against the spacer.