Cannondale Aficionados / Owners

YES @Dick YES

great start to a new page 🙄

Are you having issues with turning with the cables running that tight to the frame?

Cables actually aren't that tight - think the picture is a little misrepresentative!

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picked up from mud dock earlier after quite an eye-watering labour/hr charge. glad its all sorted, finishing touches should be completed tonight. the hydros feel amazing. like really really nice, great modulation. I am scared these rotors are going to absolutely eat pads and/or warp quite quickly though

Unless you're gonna do some alpine descent anytime soon, I wouldn't worry too much about the rotor.

i am going to mallorca in a weeks time.. but no I am sure they will be fine.

6800 front derailleur seems to be extremely hard to shift up. unsure what the problem is.. mechanic said the inner slightly fouled the tubing but it cant be that bad

edit: seems like it works way better if setup the old-school (circled) way and not the shimano "own" cable-in setup. other people seem to agree. guess it depends on frame

that looks mint.

having said that... gold chain?

no... although that might just put it in tumblrbike territory. i will think about it

my initial thought was 'what could you do to fuck this build up' and my mind went to gold chain, but having thought about it for a minute... I think it would look great, especially after a bit of riding.

Gold chain: do it

6800 front derailleur seems to be extremely hard to shift up. unsure what the problem is.. mechanic said the inner slightly fouled the tubing but it cant be that bad

Is the cable under heavy tension? if not, it should be.

Secondly, is the cable isn't in the way with the rear shift cable internally? put your finger on the front derailleur cable while shifting the rear one to see if it's coming in contact.

Lastly, the derailleur position can affect how it feel when trying to trim it (I guess that you find it hard to trim it without going up to the big ring?), usually you need to make sure the front plate is aligned to the chainring, however in some scenario you might need to move it a little.

Ultimately what I've found is that it varies on the frames and/or crankset, some shift great, other mediocre due to the chainset position, if the chainset is closer to the seat tube, it affect how it shift.

I am going to mallorca in a weeks time.. but no I am sure they will be fine.

If you can descent comfortably without wearing in the rim brake pads on a big descent, then you should be fine with disc (i.e. don't drag it for too long).

It's been dry up here in Norfolk all day so I took the Evo out for its first spin of the year tonight. Beaming from ear to ear; what a joy to ride: especially after spending the last 5 months on the winter biek.

So stiffness, much responsive.

Fucking gritters were out about 15 miles from home though, so washed and dried the bike off as soon as I got in.

I have ordered two CAAD12's, one 56 and one 58, I'll test ride them back to back and send the one that doesn't fit back.

it won't rust!

glad you're enjoying it tho, they're such mint bikes

I replaced the rear mech on my winter bike a couple of years ago. Within a couple of weeks of commuting, the mech arm was black and pitted.

For the sake of 10 mins hosing the bike down and wiping it dry, I'd rather do it than not.

it won't rust!

Famous last word.

I concur, best to wash as soon as possible after you've been riding on gritters.

Can you order a 54 while your at it.

#jussaying

My CAAD10, All be it not a disc

Never ending CAAD10 Disc build continues - FINALLY got the replacement forks.
Wheels ready for collection at SBC - Awesome.
Started cabling in earnest last night to discover there's only one inner brake cable in my Jagwire XL box. Only one end of the giant cable has a metal ball on it, so I can't cut it in two. Faff.

In case useful to anyone cabling for mechanical discs... To get the compressionless rear brake housing to run better through the frame; Thread outer through and cut to length. Mark on cable where the major bends are; BB and cable exit on chainstay. Remove. Bend heavily by hand at these points. Thread back through. Mine sits soooo much better now and inner cable doesn't seem to drag.

One more thing to add - if there's a slight amount of friction, fitting Campagnolo brake cable will reduced it to nothing.

(note - depend on levers, if the slot for the brake cable in the levers is an O shaped, then you're fine, if its a U shape, don't).

That's a great tip, many thanks. Sram Red 2012 shifters, so it's O-shaped. I'll pick some up today so I can get this on the road.

what cranks are you running @iamalex ?