• I've just listed 27" conloy wheel on ebay, but it is a front 32 spoke on solite rim. The Conloy rims I have are 26 1 1/4". If you are still interested in either let me know asap and I can remove them if not bought.

  • 1948 RRA ?. I doing one of those up at the moment as well. Original components are very hard to find and very pricey. I have a build thread on current projects at the moment. Would like to seem some photos. And of the Jack taylor curved tube Skülly.

  • My latest beach bike. Built mostly from 1930's american parts. Frame is a CWC Western Flyer. Need dog leg cranks and period pedals to finish it.

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  • How do find braking only on a coaster hub?

  • its for riding along the sea front, so don't ever go fast..... the hub is 1930's and better than any coaster hub i have ever used.

  • Nice thread. Not enough devotion to this kind of vintage! I almost bought a 1940's track iron last night but the Seller upper the price from £50 to £165, which I kinda balked at..

  • Spotted this in a window in Lyon, sorry for the ruddy awful photos. There was a sign that explained (if I remember correctly) that it is a Peugeot from 1921 & was found as it is in a forgotten cellar.


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  • @luckyskull Lovely beach bike! I had a similar looking coaster hub picked up from here, Van Schothorst. It was excellent! Bike got nicked :(

  • Spam alert:

    I'm selling a 1938 BSA ex-police bike here.

    Price drop inspired by a house move is imminent. Offers welcome.

  • On the hunt for inspiration for new paint on lugless Jack Taylor ... Probably going flam, maybe a mid green like Mercian emerald. Thing is, JTs should really have box lining. Would that be uber cash? Who even does it?

  • I had a frame finished in green flamboyant at Argos and it's really nice, though I think Argos are 40 or something pounds more expensive than Marcian.
    They do box lining, single or double. Mercian might also do that but not sure.

  • @ElGato OK that's great, thanks for the info. For some reason I thought no-one did it at all.

    Argos is spendy, I've used them before.

    Don't think I can justify it, for reasons of imperfection (the frame's had a very large repair). Think I'm going to go cheap & cheerful, Mario here I come.

  • What about a hot rod type person who does pin Striping? There is a chap called 'nefarious' in the vw scene that does a fantastic job....might be cheaper than a proper bike place?

  • I think Mario can do both lug / box lining. Not sure how good he is though

  • Not sure if this is exactly the right place but you're a knowledgeable lot. Can someone help me with a bottom bracket please? Although you'll no doubt disapprove I am replacing a Bayliss Wiley cottered bottom bracket (which i think dates to around 1955) with a modern sealed unit for a 1950s claud butler to be used as a town bike by my GF.

    This is the BB I've taken out of the frame - for reference.

    It has not many useful markings on it, but I tried a UN54 for size and it seems to be a different diameter, before even thinking about the threading etc.

    I see no marks on the BB anywhere that are helpful apart from 15NGCC on the spindle, which I believe means "non-gear case clearance", i.e. it was only ever single speed [?] [or had a planetary hub ???]. If anyone can point me in the right direction I would be v grateful

    Anyway, this doesn't help with my immediate problem of replacing it. Original BB will be available in due course either for sale at an extortionate rate on ebay or in the general classifieds or to a nice chap from this thread at something more reasonable :)

  • I may have answered my own question. I will double check when I get home but I may be (in this case, as well as generally in life) an idiot - i think the UN54 I tried might be italian size and that would be why it is too big.

    ha, looking for a problem where there isn't one.

  • non gear case clearance = for single sprocket on the rear
    source: http://www.classiclightweights.co.uk/bblengths.html
    for the model 15 see the table on that page for the specifications.

    are the BB cups marked with 'O'?

  • Not as far as I can tell, but the right hand side has been painted at some point so difficult to see. What would that mean - oversized?

  • definitely 15NGCC is for single speed.
    I got the same on my Holdsworth

  • I've got two at the moment, a 1938 BSA Sports which lives at work and a 1937 Parkes Lightweight that I'm building.

    The BSA has early 1950s Resilion high flange hubs built into 26 x 1-3/8" rims and what I think are its original Lauterwasser bars. 48/16 fixed gear:

    The Parkes is work in progress, I've got most of what I need but it's just mocked up here with my spare track wheels and some spare bars. It'll be built up with mainly 50s components:

  • Cool thread!
    Nice bikes everyone and right up my alley ;)

    Some more pre-60s SS and fixed projects in the garage, but let's start of with two I've actually enjoyed riding...

    A 23" 1947 Phillips Sport in it's original paint and trim. Only had to replace the wheels with a set from a 1955 Phillips Sport. Very slack angles, lots of patina, fun to ride.

    A 20" 1935 (?) GA 99, Resilion cantilevers, K7 hub. Lovely ride, took it on a VCC ride this month, unfortunately a bit too small for me. So although I love the looks, it has to go to fund other projects which will be a better fit :(


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  • For Osgear users here - apparently it works with a 5-speed - see some pics I took on a VCC ride yesterday :) DIY indexed shifting


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  • What frame is that?

  • A Bates......

  • Lovely fork crown...where was this ride organised? I'm part of VCC and I'd love to join one with my La Variable in spring/summer

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Pre 1950s rides of LFGSS: old bikes, vintage rats, classic lightweights

Posted by Avatar for luckyskull @luckyskull

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