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• #7252
I did 1 lesson on the mod1 test centre (2 or 3 hours) and then went into the test a few days later (passed)
Had a lesson on the road, said I can go for test but I couldn't get in for 2 weeks so ha another lesson a few days before the mod2 (passed)I had been riding daily on a 125 for a couple of months though so had decent road experience.
You can never do too many lifesavers (mod 1 and 2) and keep the 2 second gap in the mod2.
Obvious mirror checks as well, full head move not just an eye flick -
• #7253
Just do what the place you're going recommends.
As a 125 rider you'll have a load of bad habbits they'll need to beat out of you!!
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• #7254
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• #7255
Assuming you have a jack, basic tools and preferably somewhere off the street to work then you should be able to do this yourself. Investing in tools will be cheaper in the long run than garage prices.
As ever, my mate Del has at least one video on it. Of course not all forks are the same but most can be done like this.
As for gaiters, they aren't really necessary for road riding. Mostly for looks in my opinion.
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• #7256
The bastard love child between a CAAD10 and a?
@Mirius yeah I watch quite a lot of his stuff. Is there a final picture of how his Triumph scrambler ended up? I need most of those things and don't have anywhere to work :( the mechanic I spoke to said I'd need an impact driver(?)
The costs rack up quickly though once you use a mechanic. My MOT flagged them and I figure it's best to sort the seals out before they totally go.
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• #7257
KTM SMT 990
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• #7258
Working outside isn't much fun at this time of year. I feel the pain on tools as I've started a new project which has cost me a fair bit on buying stuff and I've just discovered more tools to buy.
Do you know anyone local who could help you with any of it.
Not much really happening on the scrambler since he lowered it so Penny could ride it. Should be done more bits and pieces coming up I expect now he has the new garage sorted. He has a playlist now for the scrambler so worth checking that if you aren't sure if you've seen everything.
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• #7259
That video exemplifies why I can't do the work myself. Space.
Fingers crossed I might be moving somewhere where I will have an off-street area. The seals are a ridiculous £26 each. So I think I might wait for a bit.
I guess I could rub a thin layer of grease over the top of the current seals to reduce the risk of water ingress? They were just flagged as something that needed doing rather than imminently failing.
Or could that damage the rubber? Would silicone be better?
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• #7260
Fork oil tends to be petrochemical based so I can't see why grease would do any damage. Not sure it would help much either. I need to change the seals in the Sportster but they are a bit more complicated to do.
Have you tried the milk bottle plastic trick to clean out any dirt inside the seals? This may cure the problem in the short term.
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• #7261
35mm flim trick is the usual one. Thinner stronger plastic.
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• #7262
What bike is it? Still the 125?
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• #7263
I friggin hate fork seals - more so on upside downies. I just drop the forks and take them in loose to the shop these days. Works out a good clip cheaper.
Never managed to make the 35mm trick work but if you're going to try, make sure everything is scrupulously clean first.
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• #7264
Yeh.
There's just some cracking round the top of the rubber bit of the seal.
No oil on the forks or anything indicating an issue.
I was just having a look the other evening because I thought there was something off with the forks (it was actually just shabby London roads - I only see the road in daylight one way).
Mainly I want to keep costs down on a bike I hopefully will swap for something bigger in the near future. So I reasoned that if I wait until the seals are totally gone and the forks get damaged it will cost more.
But actually if they're fine for another 6-12 months then maybe it's not worth worrying about. So the home fixes are really useful.
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• #7265
You need some way of supporting the front end, headstock stand if you wanna be fancy, centre-stand or bricks and wood if you're not. The rest of the job can be done inside once forks are removed so a garage not essential. I did my last set in a third-floor apartment. Space shouldn't be a limiting factor (bring the wheel in too if you're worried it'll be nicked).
Top-tip tool-wise is some PVC piping from B&Q. Wet-and-dry it nice and smooth on one end to make a fork-seal driver. You'll save yourself £40 over buying a "proper" one. Cut it long enough to be able to gently mallet it in from above rather than trying to make a split tool.
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• #7266
Top seal is a cover seal, you can lift it to see if there is any issue with the seal.
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• #7267
Think that once the seal is worn there is nothing you can do.
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• #7268
If no oil on the forks, leave them well alone.
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• #7269
If there is kitchen roll maybe your friend ;)
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• #7270
Woot! SV passed it's MOT with a clean sheet today
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• #7271
Can start worrying about next years now!
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• #7272
Ronnie who?
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• #7273
Haha yeah. If it lasts that long. May be a cafe racer/streetfighter by then. Never liked the 'dildo' top fairing
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• #7274
Ronnie is a legend - that is some seriously unwatchable footage though. Weird.
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• #7275
I had fun trying to find the baffles for my bike to get it through!
Back with more noob questions!
My fork seals need replacing.
From looking online this looks like something I could probably do, but not without a garage and some sort of stand. I don’t have either. So is it best to take it to a shop?
If the seals are being replaced is it worth adding gators?
I’ve passed my theory and looking to book my mod 1 and mod 2 (I am over 24).
I spoke to http://www.londonmotorcycletraining.co.uk and they said they usually advise 2 days training, mod 1, then mod 2. Possibly with a day before the mod 2.
I did a mod 1 practice session about 3yrs ago. I’m half wondering if I could just go ahead and do my mod 1 and then book some lessons and the mod 2.
Anyone got any recommendations for the best way to do it?