Cannondale 3.0 for steel swap out

Posted on
Page
of 2
/ 2
Next
  • Following some physio for my knees I need to change to a geared bike . Since all my bikes are very similar steel frames I thought I'd try something different and always liked the aesthetics of the 90s Cannondale frames. Picked a slighty ratty 3.0 frame up to try - whether it's too uncomfortable after steel is to be seen ! I'll give it a months trial or so before deciding whether to swap for the steel frame. The plan is to build up with a 9/10 speed Campag group to keep the cost down.

    Took the frame to Argos Cycles today for a check over and to get the bottom bracket shell chased and faced . Any excuse to go there - so many amazing frames hanging up !! They have some beautiful new colours in as well , including a colour changing paint they showed me on a carbon frame they'd sprayed .

    The frame is pretty scratched but after some t-cut and wax it's looking much better, hard to see in the photo but the metallic paint fade is pretty sweet . Will update with some cobbled together build photos later

  • Set up as a single speed to test and the chain is jumping , hmm... Transferred cranks and wheel from another ss bike no problem, chain line should be fine, though have gone from 70 to 68mm bottom bracket . . I've never used a chain tensioner before though, have I got too much slack in there ?

  • sounds like wear in the chain or sprockets meaning every so many teeth that one bumps a pin?

  • Just put a brand new chain on as chain tensioner meant previous chain was too short , sprockets are fine as well . I'd shorten the chain a bit more but don't want to keep chopping it as bought it for the geared set up

  • I think shortening the chain would do it. Maybe try to figure out a magic gear and use any old chain you have around?

  • Lovely frame. Always had a bit of a thing about those old 'dales.

  • Ok perhaps Schnelly was correct, managed to get the old chain on with an extra powerlink and no skipping! Looking closely the front ring has a little wear. Its a bit shorter than the new chain so that probably helps and adjusted the chainline as well.

    Just took it out for a spin around the block it definitely feels stiff on acceleration! Not noticeabley uncomfortable either, but I'll see how it performs on my commute tomorrow. Have added extra padding under the tape and will run the tyres at 90 psi so that should help too.

    Now I just need to remember where I put those cable guides so I can get rid of the cable ties!

  • Been riding this for a couple of weeks and love it, it accelerates really nicely, definitely stiff but don't find it uncomfortable and I'm riding 23c tyres... perhaps its deadened a bit over the years? I swapped out the saddle for a cushy Charge Spoon so I think that helps .

    Was planning to find an all black groupset e.g. 105 but keep missing them on here so am going to use a silver Campag groupset I've cobbled together. I also have a pair of silver Vento wheels , and on reflection think they offset the silver graphics much better (apologies for the poor pictures) :

  • For future reference, your chain was skipping because you didn't have enough to "wrap" - contact between chain and sprocket.

    This build needs risers!

    Awesome fadez

  • Cheers. No risers sorry! Hoping to put some distance in on this bike. Project was waylaid somewhat by this monstrosity ! https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/282704/#comment12836678

    Should have the replacement tomorrow,.

  • Groupset is a bit of a mixed bag of Record/Chorus/Centaur/Daytona. Have a square taper and UT chainset, think I'm going to try out the UT as not used it before.

    3T erganova bars courtesy of the forum. Not too keen on the Truvativ stem but just testing reach for the bars as they're compacts, will probably swap out for something nicer at some point

  • Wow.

    You should name them to stop others suffering at their hands. #cowboybikeshops

    Build looks smart.

  • Have run into an issue - I have a Daytona 10 speed rear mech missing the rear cage plate and jockey wheels and bolts. Used a doner Veloce 10 speed rear mech but the bolts are about 2mm too short. Looks like the Daytona front cage plate is not countersunk as deep. Strange as they are both 10 speed. The only bolts I could find that might be long enough (16mm) were KCNC at 15.5 so have ordered on ebay.

  • Making some progress, ending up buying a new Centaur rear mech as donor mech was causing some issues. Quick build pic: think I'm going to go with the square taper chainset as it matches the rest of the groupset era and I coudn't get hold of a torque wrench for the UT chainset (its just balanced on for the pic).

    Will be replacing these wheels with some Khamsin CX as only just noticed both rims are looking pretty concave, shame as I like the silver of these older Ventos..

    Also want to get a nicer stem, probably a Thomson X2 to match the seatpost, this one was just a cheapie for testing the length.

  • Can anyone tell me what these small threaded holes on the fork dropouts are for? The rear dropouts have standard size threaded holes that look like mudguard attachment points, but I've never seen ones like these on the forks:

  • Manged to get this built yesterday and took for a spin this morning . Running 25c tyres at 90psi it feels smooth enough and still fast! Still need to fine tune the gears.

    Parts to Update:

    Wheels - Khamsin / Fulcrum 7 Lg still to order.

    Bottle cage - may go with traditional silver metal cage, will decide once wheels arrive.

    Stem - would like something nicer, possibly Thomson X2.

    Cable guides - Current ones are stuck on with double sided tape but keep pulling away. Vintage Cannondale are now selling Alu cnc'd ones that fix into holes in the top tube.

    Fork - would like a 1 inch carbon e.g. Minimal if I can find at a good price, still looking .

    Headset - came with the original Dia Compe Aheadset (1994 so one of the first threadless headsets ?) . Ok but a bit shabby so will update at some point.

  • I would enjoy a silver thomson layback + matching stem.

    Some straight Time or similar forks would also be gr8

    Did the Look fork in classifieds not work out?

  • None of the forks had a long enough steerer unfortunately (need about 200-220mm) apart from a GOKA but seller seems reluctant to provide much info about it. Also the rake for the original for is 38mm, most 1" forks available these days seem to be 45, not sure how that will affect the handling, maybe too twitchy?

    Yes did think about silver post and stem but new wheels will be black so think I'll wait till I get them. My other bikes are all silver components so wanted to build something a bit different.

  • Ah finding decent 1" forks with plenty steerer can be a slow process. Worth keeping track of eBay. I don't think you would find the fork overly twitchy due to te increased rake, it's something you just adapt to IMO.

    Silver statement was due to everything else being silver indeed, with black wheels there should be a nice balance with black post/stem.

  • Could you squeeze onto 190mm steerer? Remember x2 is 35mm stack which is 5-7mm below average.

    http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/RARE-Wound-Up-Carbon-Road-X-Fork-40mm-1-Caliper-Brake-Steer-Tube-Blade-1-Inch-/231754780219?nav=SEARCH

    I can assure you woundups ride beautifully.

  • Are they for sort of protective plates to stop the paint in the dropouts getting scuffed?

    My Cannondale 2.8 has them on the rear, with a one-bolt plate, but the fork might not be stock so I'm not sure it has them.

  • Good suggestion, I would love a pair of woundups, but not sure its worth sinking that much into this frame, I saw a CAAD9 frame and fork go for less than those on ebay last week! Maybe I should wait six months and see how much I like the frame. They do look great and seem to last well.

  • I've no idea, doesn't seem to mention them in the brochures, my rear dropouts have one threaded hole on either side, I presumed they were for mudguards.. Can I see a pic of your rear?

  • Aye they are pricey... Think of yhe HHSRB points tho.

    I think the OG forks look banging with the fadez. Being Canondale I'm guessing they'll ride better than most Alu forks too.

  • Post a reply
    • Bold
    • Italics
    • Link
    • Image
    • List
    • Quote
    • code
    • Preview
About

Cannondale 3.0 for steel swap out

Posted by Avatar for zootsuit @zootsuit

Actions