Cannondale Aficionados / Owners

Posted on
Page
of 680
  • Yeah the two straight through longer bolts are an absolute ball ache to set up

  • Maybe the ones you're looking for are the Time Slice forks, that the higher end bikes came with?

  • Possibly, these are the carbon ones right? I thought from the catalogues the older alloy forks were also called sub one but perhaps not. I know the older 80s frames had full steel forks. Mine are also 1" steerer

    Edit- In the 1994 brochure the 2.8 frames have a 'sub 1' 1 1/4 inch alloy fork that the claim weighs less than a pound. I think this was what @Dick had on his R900 ? Perhaps my 3.o was a lower spec as it was used for the lower R series bikes.

  • Yeah I had the Sub1 1/4 on my 2.8 R900, they still weighed a ton! Switched them out for WoundUps!

  • Cheers, did you find the carbon fork made much difference in comfort? Not sure its worth the expense for this one, but if I like it I may keep an eye out for a lighter 'dale frame

  • A full carbon fork mean not only it's safer to ride, but reduced the amount of vibration travelling up to the handlebar.

    But from a safety point of view, go full carbon.

  • The whole bike was stupidly stiff - especially after adding a pair of Spinergy's.
    I don't think I'd associate the word comfort with it.

  • Ha! yes its a potential replacement for one of my steel frames as I fancied a change and something lighter / stiffer but I thing I'll ride for a month or so before investing any more in it!

  • Cheers edscoble, agreed. I also think the weight difference for a carbon fork with alloy steerer isn't significant enough to bother with.Would probably look at a Columbus Minimal or similar.

  • oh with a sort of bridge thing? fair enough

  • This looks nuts, very unique, and a good match for the DRK kit! Look forward to seeing it in one of the local races.

  • If it saves you more than a gram per pound then buy some.

  • I'm in the market for a new bike, I have 2 bikes I'm looking at right now (both used)
    1 is a 2010 Cannondale supersix with a 2008 ultegra SL group, and 2 sets of wheels (ambrosio/ultegra, and DTswiss 420's) or
    a Scott 2013 CR1 pro, full ultegra, and syncros wheels.
    Both are almost exactly the same price, which do I jump on and why?
    I can't test ride both, I can test ride the cannondale though, which I will be doing shortly.


    2 Attachments

    • supersix.jpg
    • scott.jpg
  • whats the price? you can pick up a new 2014 supersix with 105 for around £900

  • £480 for the cannondale, £500 for the scott

  • Scott is probably a better deal, only because despite the SS being the better frame, I'm not sure I'd pay much for a nearly 10 year old groupset

    The better deal would be save a few more quid and buy a brand new SS for not much more

  • I agree, an 8 year old groupset does not make sense, if that is your budget then id go with the scott or look for a second hand caad10

  • Haggle the Cannondale down further then.

    The old Ultegra shifters is still great to use, better than the Sora/Tiagra.

  • Old, used crabon bikes can fuck right off tho

    In most circumstances

  • The Scott looks far better condition from the photos. I do prefer the older 6600-G to the newer 6700 saying that.

  • scott is now sold, so I guess the equation is simple, I check out the Cannondale, and if it's in good nick, I'll try haggle it down, to a nicer figure, if I can't, then I'll just wait until a good deal walks my way and I'll have cash in hand

  • how tall are you? i have 58cm hong fu going

  • Any Cannondale dealers out there that want a fat man to test their bike over a few thousand miles?

    Where's the cheapest place for a 56cm Synapse Ultegra Di2 Disc (will also consider the frameset alone)?

    Not in Green.

  • mine is black and white

    but not for sellz

  • Post a reply
    • Bold
    • Italics
    • Link
    • Image
    • List
    • Quote
    • code
    • Preview
About

Cannondale Aficionados / Owners

Posted by Avatar for MaxC @MaxC

Actions