Best cyclocross bike under £1000 and other CX chat

Thanks. Looks as though an outer runs inside the frame, I just thought the inners ran inside the frame.
Anyhoo, it looks as though there's corrosion somewhere as I can't pull the inner out. Will have to replace both inner and outer.

I think they put the 32t cog in it to make up for the 50t ring.

Yikes I can only imagine the sound of a chain stretching to 50-32 :-S

CX50 is 105 level and comes with an appropriate chainring.

46x11 should be enough to keep up with all but the fastest of club runs.

I think you kinda know the answer to that; the majority don't use it for actual cross.

Majority of customers I sold CX bikes to are usually commuter/first timer/winter bike.

46x11 should be enough to keep up with all the club runs if you spin.

FTFY.

I do 'club runs' on 42x11 only time I get out-spun is the downhill bit

42x11 is over 100", plenty big enough. And less than 6" shorter than the 53/13 top gear I had on my road bike all of last year.

thats what she said

Oi, no dirty remarks in the cx threads, keep it clean.

How much difference do (cable actuated) disc brakes make?

I'm trying to decide whether I want to build a 1x10 bike based around a brother kepler frame (probably with mini-vs), or whether to go down the c2w route and get something like a CDF20/Plug 4/CAADX 105?

Currently my sole experience is with the various iterations of calliper brakes I've had on my road frames in the past. The bike will be intended as a do it all light tourer/commuter/winter training/gravel bike, and to go alongside my nice road bike and TT bike.

How much difference do (cable actuated) disc brakes make?

A massive difference if build correctly (i.e. compressionless, which the CAADX most defintely doesn't have, unsure about Charge).

I'm going to be controversial, but I reckon cable actuated disc brakes are crap. They work well enough but just don't have the modulation and control of a well set up pair of dual pivot brakes.

Hydraulic discs, on the other hand, are superb and worth stretching the budget for if you can.

So much screech on the rims after my first very muddy ride in Epping Forest on the ride home that I stopped at a car wash.

If I'd had disc what happens with the rotors and pads in these conditions and what is the course of action to keep them from filing down and working?

As with rim brakes, keep grit off the surfaces, just normal cleaning regime. Just give mine a blast with water once a week then drop the wheels out and clean disc and pads once a month.

I'm going to be controversial...

Boo!

Agree with this. Have never really got on with the mechanical disc brakes on my TCX and suspect the rim brakes on my road bikes are actually better.

Make sure they're bedded in well. Or rub pads with a bit of emery paper, clean, pop back in. Mine stop on a penny. Don't find modulation too bad.

Do they clear mud better than Vbrakes?
That's my concern.

Yes. They are fine for racing on, but you don't really need to stop in a CX race, just scrub speed off.

But riding on the road I find them less assuring than dual pivots.

When hydraulic discs reach my price point, I'll worry about the move from dual pivot.

Mechanical disc will have a decent improvement over dual pivot regardless of the weather.

Are v brakes dual pivot?

No.

Happy Birthday Liz! @Ramsaye