• Hmmm, thanks for this. Any one know where I can get something suitably period looking?

  • How about a stepped ferule? bottom of this page http://www.framebuilding.com/Sundry-Components.htm

    Or what about getting a pair of these brass adjusters modified at an engineers?


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  • Ok, there's definitely supposed to be a ferrule then! I can confirm that the normal type usually found on Weinmann brake levers won't fit because the hole is much larger.

  • Peter Lowry, VCC Hobbs marque specialist messaged to say that he reckons these will do the job.
    Ebay item 331564040742

  • Thanks, that stepped ferrule looks perfect!

  • Excellent - cheers for that!

  • No problems, I've also ordered a set of these too. They're described as NOS 50's stepdown ferrules.
    Ebay 252178310873

  • late to the party but I would recommend those stepped ferrules, as I had them as replacements on my Lenton.

    From what I remember there were some casting/forming marks on them that scraped off easily and then they went on a worked, no trouble.

  • They look just the job.

  • Ah, good to hear that they're the real deal then!

  • So those NOS Raleigh stepped ferrules did the job. Absolutely perfect fit:

  • nice to get the details right, they do need a little patina however

  • So I finally found a NOS Chater Lea 1007 BB axle.
    It's winging its way from Australia. One step closer.

  • Just taken receipt of a lovely set of front Reynolds Hiduminium wingnuts. Very Very light.

  • These details man, this is going to be fantastic once it's finished. :) Great job so far.

  • Thanks man. It's a bit of a labour of love. It WILL be finished for Eroica Britannia this year!

  • It's amazing how much longer it takes to put these older bikes together. It's all the little bits that take the time; things like ferrules, cotter pins, wheel nuts and all those other little bits that seem to go missing from the main components.

  • Indeed, just about there now, maybe...
    Just won this, NOS and boxed.
    With 48 * 23 as my lowest gear, I'll definitely be walking up most of the Eroica hills again!

  • the way it should be!
    the was a post earlier today on Classic Rendezvous:

    Is anyone else like me, taking a perfectly functional bike needing one or two simple tweaks before traveling to Eroica California, and once you start work the only thing that doesn't change on the bike is the seat binder and headset?

    After mulling over all the possibilities, I decided to take my '54 Algurn for Eroica, as it is a very comfortable ride with the typical English 50's longer wheelbase and lavish tire clearances. The only problem was the 27 inch wheels running inch and 1/8th tires and the double Stonglight 49d cranks. I wanted to swap out the wheels for 700c so I could put a fatter tire on, and I wanted a triple crank. I rode a double last year and didn't even get close to being able to climb the hills. Yes, Bobet rode with a double and a 45x24 low gear, but Bobet was fit. I suspect I'll hit the same pulse rate at Bobet at 1/4 the speed, or at least hit my upper limit, even with super low gears.

    So off came the 49d cranks and on goes the Stronglight 99 arms, fitted with 50x45x28 rings joined with a new 13-32 Suntour Ultra six freewheel. Longer BB of course, only had to try three different ones to get a fit. Hmm, I was going to use a set of Bullseye hub-ed wheels but they weren't quite wide enough in the back for the freewheel. One frantic wheel build later, on goes a set of 32x40 Campy low flange hubs built with a 40 spoke Mavic Module 4 rear rim (thanks, Wayne Bingham) and a Pacenti PL23 front. Rear hub spaced out to 124mm. Hmm, now the front derailleur doesn't like the triple crank. Off comes the Suntour Cyclone and on goes a Simplex mech. Have to use a front changer with the bolt on the right side to clear the pump. Hmm, the rear derailleur on this hanger doesn't really clear the 32 tooth cog. Off comes the Campag Rally, on goes a Shimano 600 Arabesque long cage (a very underrated touring mech, btw). Hmm, the GB brake levers with the red plastic quick release tongues are notoriously fragile, and I'm packing this in a shipping case. Off come the GB brake set for a pair of Mafac Dural Forge calipers & levers. Hmm, if I'm changing the brake levers, I might as well use my favorite Nitto 176 bars. Hmm, the GB stem is 25.4 so switch to a Nitto stem. Hmm, the Mafacs (which were fine when mounted on the Jack Taylor) howl like banshees on the new rims. No time now to de-squeal them, so swap the calipers for Paul Racers. Hmm, leather on the old well broken in Brooks B17 is splitting a bit on the front rivet. Don't want to take a chance of a saddle failure so far from home. Off it comes, and on goes the Brooks Pro. Hmm, can't use the saddle bag. On go the clamp on bag eyelets.

    I find that so sad. Perhaps they are better off providing a route that better matches the period bikes and the age/fitness of the riders. Far better than forcing these corruptions.

  • I stopped reading that halfway through because I thought I'd have to do a short cry into my hands if I continued.

  • Ha, I'll be doing the exact opposite. Putting lots of period correct bits on that aren't suitable for 3000m of elevation.

  • Now in possession of the Osgear cassette. It's lovely and so is the packaging. Seems wrong to use it somehow. Teeth are 23-17-14

    Right, I've now got at least one of everything but am missing a nice oldish set of tyres to put on and my contact that I was going to use has gone quiet. Anyone got anything in 26 x 1 1/4 or know anyone in the VCC that could help?

  • Won a nice Terry's Watch Clip on the weekend. Described as shed fresh. Need a stopwatch now. Smith's were the order of the day weren't they?

  • stopwatch or conventional pocket watch?
    depends on how long the time trial was, but if it was greater than 60 min then it would exceed the normal capacity of a stop watch.
    A conventional watch could be set to 0 hours 0 min then it would show the hours, minutes and seconds. And on regular rides it is set to show the conventional time.

    If you go for the stopwatch, check the actual specifics of the piece as there are many that have other than 60 min timing functions.
    The 1939 Brown Brothers Catalogue has in the graphic what appears to be a conventional pocket watch and the option to purchase a Reliance watch (made by Ingersoll). Other options were available
    The Brown Bros 1952 catalogue has the same Terry's clip image but there is no mention of any watches for sale.
    I bought the Smiths Empire Pocket Watch. When I was looking there was a wide range in prices and not all were described as working or kept good time.

  • stopwatch or conventional pocket watch?>

    Pretty sure I'll go for a pocket watch. Not sure it would take a full stop watch. Thanks for the suggestions I'll take a look.

    In other news, Steve, that you put me in touch with from the VCC came up with some tyres which I collected this evening.
    Whilst I was there, I also picked up some more 'shed fresh' stuff - a Coloral (down or seat tube bottle holder), some Chossy straps (from a shop in Portsmouth ) and a really nice, lightweight bell which makes a great sound.

    Just need to find someone now who is a wizard with Osgear to put it all together. Steve is going to ask some people he knows and come up with some suggestions.

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1947 Hobbs of Barbican Clubweight Build and many other old builds

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