Current Projects chat and miscellany

I think its the fact I dont want 30mm+ of spacers. The head tube is a small 155mm on a 56 Caad10. I dont bend that well.

Don't measure the headtube, measure the Stack and Reach.

Headtube size are usually determined by the fork length and headset, a CX bicycle (Genesis Croix de Fer 54cm) with 135mm headtube have about the same height as a Cannondale CAAD10 with 155mm in 56cm.

Also bottom bracket height can make a difference, a lower BB would make the headtube feel taller, whether a higher BB will make it feel smaller.

Usually M5.

According to the geometry chart, it look like you're better off going for the 58cm as it's only 5mm longer, can be remedy by using a different handlebar with a shorter reach (says a compact with a 75mm reach, or 70mm reach).

Cannondale's measurement are fairly traditional, if you got a 56cm frame, expect a 56cm fit.

Having spacers is fine, you'll only notice it if you don't ride the CAAD10.

Ive been looking at that geo chart loads latley, It does look like the 58 would fot fine tbh.

btw im also going off I ride a 55cm All city macho man with a lay back thomson and a 110mm stem. the 55 machoman has a 565 toptube...

Cheers Ed!

It's best to make sure the saddle position fit perfectly, then worry about the rest.

too far forward just put too much pressure on the handlebar, too far back can cause pain on your legs.

If there's one bike where the saddle felt like it's in a perfect position, measure the horizontal distance from saddle nose to bottom bracket, and replicate that on the other bike.

Then you can sort out the reach.

55cm Macho Man;

• Stack; 583mm
  
• Reach; 386mm
  
  

58cm CAAD10;

• Stack; 579mm
  
• Reach; 399mm
  
  

Basically the height of the handlebar is similar to the 58cm CAAD10, and need a 100mm stem to compensate for the 13mm extra reach.

You have been ever so helpful, thank you.

More info here if you need to figure it out.

First winter I've actually had a suitable bike, makes life so much easier

Basically the height of the handlebar is similar to the 58cm CAAD10, and need a 100mm stem to compensate for the 13mm extra reach.

I figured that one out...58 is the one to go for then!

Does anybody know if the drain cleaner will strip the black matt finish of 3T stuff (painted or anodized)?

Drain cleaner will remove anodized stuff. For powder coat I use gasket remover.

Almost done painting these Time forks to match my Trek 2300 Pro. Splatter effect isn't 100% the same as on the frame but this looks cool enough.

Some clearcoats and it's done.

Great work!

Oh and does it strike anyone else as a bit mean for a £650 frameset not to come with bolts >for the bottle cage and rack braze-ons?

Mine came with them, you can see the 4 of them top left of this inner-parts-box picture:

Did you got some Di2 blanking grommets/plugs? I didn't get them, and emailed bruce@upgradebikes.co.uk about still waiting for a response.. Try your luck asking him about those screws.

Hey, unless I've got things really wrong, those four bolts with the white threadlock are for mounting the two disc caliper adapters to the frame. And then the four bolts with red threadlock are for mounting the caliper to the adapter.

No Di2 blanking things for me either. I also think only getting the one little clip on hose clamp is a bit weird, as there are (as far as I can tell) two places for them to clip onto, one on the fork and one on the chainstay. Those are as well as the little bolt on hose clamp.

How's your build coming along, anyway?

unless I've got things really wrong

I think you probably have. The M6 screws with the red compound are for mounting the adapters, the caliper mounting screws should be in the caliper box. The M5 screws with the white compound are the bottle cage screws, short ones for just the cage and long ones for the cage + Di2 battery holder thingy.

Those four bolts fit perfectly in the bidon cages holes :). The TRP Spyre's came and they got their own bolts so... I'm covered, maybe your brake calipers got their own bolts in the box?

I'm getting more parts these week :D, soon will update the post, thanks! I hope to see yours soon to :)

I'm pretty sure I tried the red bolts first but they wouldn't fit through the adapters. In fact, the two sets of white bolts have different sized washers, and only one pair would fit through the adapter to go into the forks (shorter ones, I think) and the other pair went through the flatmount adapters on the chainstay from bottom to top and were the perfect length to go right through the adapter and sit flush.

I'm pretty sure the red bolts are thicker and fit into the caliper mounting bolts on the adapters.

Also, you'd think there'd be six M5 bolts - four for cages and two for rack mount braze ons on the seat stay?

You do know you are literally nickel-and-diming the issue, don't you? Just go to your local fastener shop and give the bloke in a dun coat £1 if you think you need 10 more screws.

Yeah, I ordered some earlier. Just thought it was weird that they chose not to include bolts for those six braze ons and then got worried when you and bertocq pointed out I might've used the wrong bolts to attach important bits to the frame!

i think the 2k epoxy will do the trick.

2 -component glue. Good idea?

Yes. Sand off the paint and roughen up the ferrule too, and make sure everything is f***ing clean (acetone or spirit) before gluing.