Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

:-)

The wheels I'm building (Archetypes / Novatec track hubs copy from Taiwan / aero dB aci spokes) come to £135

Cheaper than such wheels hand built by a builder but planet x ald30 are cheaper, same weight (narrow rim tho) and vsprint can do something similar (just not Archetypes branded) for not much more and UK built.

Tl:Dr its a satisfying labour of love but rarely saves £££. But ... if its your thing its just so nice to use something you made yourself, with parts you picked yourself :)

It makes sense too if you have a pair of hubs like I did and wanted to replace a used up rim or (like me) wanted to go to a wider one. In the past few weeks I've doubled my lifetime wheel build count (up to 10 now!) and quite enjoyed the process. I definitely saved some money re-using Phil hubs (DT460 rims) and also built a set that I wouldn't find anywhere else (rebuilt F&S coaster and NOS Union on Sun Rhyno Lites).

what did you build exactly.

royce hubs have bigger bearing and therefore will last longer. WI hubs are lighter. both have steel axles and both have Ti freehub bodies. Both are excellent in there own way.

The archetype rim average at 485g I have weight more than i can count. The HED belgium+ averages at 465g. I use the park electronic balance.

Interesting. I'll have to test my scale against another one.

And the DT460?

The DT swiss R460 is an O.K rim. thes rim on the market at present (not for looks though) is the Kinlin XR31T.

It is very stiff, 31mm deep 24mm wide and comes with an offset drilling. It is as round and flat as an HED and most folk won't need anything more than a 24 spoke rear.

triple butted spokes on the rear will allow heavy riders to ride them with ease. I have sapim CX force on order to lace them to Miche Primato hubs. This will be a nice wheel. Also if you can get hold of some proper triplet lacing hubs with NDS flange to centre of around 46mm then you can have a 90% tension balance with the off set rim which is handy as tubeless tyres cause a big tension drop on all tubeless rim once the beads locks in place.

You can spend a hug ammount on wheels and they do the same job as much cheaper ones. speaking as a wheel builder spending much over £300 starts getting very small performance gains.

The novatec hubs are actually very good as so are Miche Primato's. Shimano Dura Ace are wonderful but Camapagnolo record are light and perfect too. cheaper as well. WI T11 have the advantage of a good range of drillings and Royce hubs are just perfection but you pay for it. Of course if you really want to spend ask Cliff to do you a set of his carbon Ti hubs. i did in triplet lacing format (with 64mm flange seperation) now these hubs cost more than my car and I don't ride any faster either. They are very nice though. notice how all of the above hubs are reliable.

Park electronic balance [ DT460 = ? g

three pairs of hubs I'm planning on servicing and building (onto open pros) over Christmas. Probably only do one as just needed the 110mm spaced rear. Hopefully Father Christmas is bringing that wheel truing hub or the might be a slight delay.

I've been stockpiling .....First pair was from @big_daddy_wayne about a year ago! The others drunk eBay purchases

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Sorry, mistook the question

485g! I was surprised too but that only a small number of rims. the disc brake version is 440g. I like this rim more.

28h archetype rims, aci doublebutted aero spokes, novatec sb165 copies.

I know yours will be better cos you know what you are doing and I don't ;)

On an unior 1689 which Le Manfriend bought

can't find the A165SB rear hub but there is a A166BT rear hub which is 262g. Your hub must be heavier maybe 340g or more.

the rim is 485g. spokes and nipples wont be more than 7.25g each it probably is less but I can't find any details on ACI aero spokes.

I'll get the scales out once done :)

I've 2012 rims (nos on ebay) I think those are 15 g lighter and also non offset.

I had my the rear of my superstar Pave 28 rebuild with DT comps on the driveside after a snappage of the lasers... 60 miles later the wheel went way out again with an audible crack. no spokes snapped and no obvious hub damage but now the wheel has an abrupt warp and a little hop. Poor tensioning to blame?

Spoke Wind up?

My 29er Wheels have super comps rotor side and lazers on the right. It was a bloody hard build. Nice Wheels when I finally got there though.

Blimey, unlucky!

Check the spoke holes maybe there's a crack there? A crack ain't good.

Hard to know the cause unless a wheel builder looks at it.

What @JWestland says could be a probable cause. Look closely at the eyelets in the area where the severe warp and hop is located, check for cracks in the rims there. If none are there also look at the rim area directly opposite the warp and hop. In fact, just check every single eyelet.

Cheers, thanks for replies. Didn't think to check the spoke holes/eyelets. Dropped the wheel off at fitzrovia this morning so I'm sure they'll give it a good look. Keeping one eye on the DT R24 wheels as a backup replacement just in case. hopefully not though.

If a lazer wound up instead of threading, and was siezed well enough. Once it decides to unwind itself. It can happen violently. If the nipple is held hard against the rim. It'll thread into it very suddenly, pulling the Wheel out of true. When this happened to me, there was a sudden pang noise, and my Wheel was out. After Close inspection I found no damage and just rebuilt With less twisty spokes.

^that sounds exactly like what happened. Rather than crack, I should probably said loud metallic pang.

I had spoke prep on my threads. Which increases the chance of Wind up. Plus it goes from being mild thread Lock to lube under friction. Thus leads to the very sudden release.

Can anyone tell me where to find cones for DA 7600? The one on the left ain't looking so pretty and I rolled a biro over it and didn't feel too good either

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