Functional bikes. Not Porn not Anti

~45mm wide

This is a fairly old atb. Anything 2" or more won't fit with mudguards. It'll loose a lot of function without the mudguards.

Yes, Kojaks seem to be the next choice if it's slimmer than 2". Iv'e seen the smaller 35mm one which is already much too slim.

What is the true width for the nomads? And they don't seem to be any lighter than Delta cruisers...

Seems like Kojak or Pasela. Knobby ~45mm 26" tyres would do fine also, especially for winter, but i doubt theres anything like that either.

That remind me of the new Ridgeback Expedition for 2016, looking a lots better than the predecessor;

The CdA I'm looking at comes with 2x10 gearing though. All my mountain bike are 1x10 or 1x11 and I love it, I guess 2x10 gives the range needed for all-day climbs as well as road descents (put a 24t chainring on my 1x10 Krampus for that very reason, low gear of 24-36... nuts)

What sort of riding have you been doing to knacker it? And do you mean 300k or 3000k? Because I think a derailleur wearing out after 3000k isn't unreasonable if you've been riding a lot of wet gritty trails... wet grit will destroy anything - mechs, headsets, BBs.

Any other negatives, durability and gearing aside?

Because I think a derailleur wearing out after 3000k isn't unreasonable if you've been riding a lot of wet gritty trails... wet grit will destroy anything - mechs, headsets, BBs.

Indeed, it seemed a lots quicker if your previous bike were a fixed wheelers (I kept forgetting how long they last for in comparison).

http://www.retrobike.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=337916

this could be quite a fun rat/funtional project...quite tempting

yesss.

also....

Yeah, how he had it built up is pretty good. Would be tempted to make use of the low rider attachments though rather than the basket. Really don't need it...but want it. If only someone would buy my stalled stumpjumper project on retrobike I would go for it

The type of riding? Mostly Road wet dry mud track mulch a lot of leaf mulch all weathers for the commute and then standard issue club rides in the West Country. So yeah as I have discovered component shagging conditions

The stock wheels are crap and the tyres were great for dry gravel towpaths (fancy that) but not much else. The saddle not for me.

But I still like it. A bike that tries to do everything is always gonna be a compromise but I've ridden very challenging rocky MTB terrain no problemand not been humiliated to badly in a hill climb event against people with the right kit

It can take mudguards & racks even on the carbon fork, yeah all in all useful as a packhorse.

Nice!

The type of riding? Mostly Road wet dry mud track mulch a lot of leaf mulch all weathers for the commute and then standard issue club rides in the West Country.

That explained it then.

Anyone know who can braze on some V-brake bosses on a set of forks?

I would guess Winston Vaz.

/\ yes...
Price list and all here;
http://smbe.co.uk/vfw2/VFW2/Frame_Repairs.html

I would add that I thought I was buying a bicycle not an ornament. The charge plug2 that I used for the same journey the year before still has the original BB & headset working fine. So in comparison to a bike at a quarter of the price I have been very lucky or unlucky depending on your point of view

it's the 'excessive use' retort that would boil my piss

It all varied, some years take its tolls on your bike, some doesn't.

Thing is, wear and tears is not something one can easily control (unless you can maintain your own bikes).

You had better luck than I with 11 speed for a everyday bike! (They wear out alarmingly fast).

Buy a Mapp torch and do it yourself.

A few people told me silver solder wouldn't do for brake posts but they seem to be holding fine on my bmx.

^^ mm well you're not making it easy for me to decide.

I don't know how many Ks I have ridden, but on my 1x10 bike, 2-3 muddy MTB rides week for about a year and the chain just about needs first replacement according to Park wear indicator tool (although I do wipe it down after every ride).

My 1x11, that's too new to measure, but apparently needs replacing at the .50 mark rather than .75 mark as recommended by Park. And because the big rear sprockets are alu they'll wear quicker, too.

Now I have heard that stainless chainrings not only last longer than alu ones, but because they don't create as much abrasive detritus from their own decomposition, the rest of the drivetrain lasts longer too. My 1x10 bike has a stainless ring.

But you could spend your whole life worrying about these things rather than actually riding. I think I will just get the bike and see how I like it, Octalink cranks and all, it's only a few hundred quid at the end of the day.

I emphasised I really do.

While Park Tools may not be the most accurate, it's always best to replace at .5 as the cassette and chainring won't be worn out at that point.

At .75 is when you need to replace the cassette, luckily chainring are the least of your concern due to the sheer size of it meaning less wear.

I also used a Rohloff cassette wear tool that helped me determined whether the cassette is O.K. or too far gone to be saved.

I emphasised as I replaced my 11 speed chain so far, 7 time this year alone ( a lots compare to my 8 speed chain which is usually once a years, maybe 15 months).

I don't know about the big sprocket causing the accelerated wear, the more teeth, the less wear it'll receive, the sprocket is actually steel with an alu carrier.

However it's very likely the chain line being a little more aggressive than it should be, I solved this issues on a customer's bike by putting the chainring on the inside (bit ugly I must admit).

Check out your chain line by just looking at the back and seeing how aggressive the chain bend sideway from the biggest and smallest sprocket.

BTW I do realise I do some off as a douchebag from my response, not my intention, bit hard to explain those kind of stuff (and I used to be a salesperson!).

^ Not at all Ed!

It is measuring about .65 so I guess it needs replacement immediately then, but hopefully my religious wiping (heh) will have saved the cassette from too much wear.

The biggest rear sprocket on my X1 drivetrain is definitely aluminium so I am anticipating it wearing faster than the steel ones despite being larger. No choice in where I place the chainring on these cranks, although on my 1x10 bike it's on the inside for the reasons you say.

How many chains do you think you'll get out of a cassette on the 11sp? I'd normally say after the third chain, forget about it and just ride until the whole thing is worn out, but you've had 7 chains on the same cassette? That's road or MTB?

Incidentally I just noticed the topographic map background on the SRAM website is only a couple of hours away from where I live in NZ... or is that just some clever IP-address-specific background? Can anyone else see Little Mount Peel in the bottom-right?

Of course, I forget about the SRAM X1, was thinking of the more common Shimano one.

Actually as long you replace it before it cause wear and tear, quite likely a long time, I never replaced the 8 speed cassette since 2013 and the 10 speed since 2010 (dad's bike).

Abet the chain were much cheaper on those cassette making it more bearable.

I wouldn't mind the accelerated wear on the 11 speed had it not been so damn expensive.

Buy a Mapp torch and do it yourself.
A few people told me silver solder wouldn't do for brake posts but they seem to be holding fine on my bmx.

You made me Google mapp torch...
Any more info on that please, link to tutorials maybe?
Would love to experiment with that on old frames (more for rack bosses that brakes, I'd feel safer to leave that to Winston)