Road Wheels & Road Wheel Recommendations?

I've been using the Hunt 4 Season disc wheels for about 2 weeks now. They seem fairly decent, although most of my riding during this period has been fairly steady since the weather has been poor.

Quality seems good, they're still straight and true (I think!) The freehub has a metal spline on it to stop the cassette digging in, which is a nice touch. The skewers are also a decent closed cam affair.

Would I buy again - too early to tell, but I think yes. Although it'd be the 28 spoke model they look to offer now.

You mean steel freehub body?

Nah, the freehub body is alloy. It's just got a steel spline on one of the bits to stop the cassette digging in.

Presumably something like this where a steel insert on one spline stops wear on the other (alu) splines:

edit - too slow

Ah gotcha,

Same as this:

Those steel splined freehubs, novatec clearly do them, where?

(i need to buy a new one)

Try BDop?

http://www.bdopcycling.com/Wheel%20Parts.asp

Possibly here , too http://www.eshop.novatecwheels.eu/category/spare-parts/cassette-bodies/

And eBay.

Good idea that. Took the cassette off my Hope ProII and the freehub is pretty badly scarred.

Actually fairly easy if you know what you're doing.

I do like those old sidewall, I wonder if I can still get those...

Needs photo of the track pump gauge.

Need new wheels for the commuter / winter bike. I'm pretty set on Fulcrum Racing 7 LG CX, they're only £120, wide rim, extra sealed bearings and look fine.

Should I consider anything else? Don't suggest those DT Swiss ones, they don't do a Campagnolo freehub.

I've seen people describe that but needing to mount them with a particular technique and having to over-inflate to seat the bead is a bit of a PITA for everyday wheels... especially if you're at the side of the road surrounded by broken tyre levers, in the pouring rain, freezing cold and late for work thinking "did that post on LFGSS tell me to start at the valve or opposite it..."

The technique is not as diffcuilt as people make it out to be.

Basically what it involved is;

• fir the tyres in, one bead first in the middle of the rims, this is important, important enough that you can actually do it with just your hand.
  If it doesn't fit in easily, double check to make sure the tyres bead is in the middle of the rims.

• Now inflate the inner tube enough to give it a shape, now fit the inner tube inside the tyres.

• Next step is pushing the inner tube inside the rims, if it get harder, deflate slight and repeat this step.

• Neaing the valve, push the valve inward to ensure the inner tube don't get caught between the rim and bead.

• Now that the inner tube is inside the tyres and rims, the last step is the last bead.
  Start opposite from 6 o'clock from the valve, then push the bead both side toward the valve, until it start to get tough.
  Deflate inner tube and repeat until it get harder, double check to ensure the bead is in the middle.

It should fit in nicely by that time.

Of course over-inflating is a bit of a PITA (usually need 60-80psi on MTB, 100-120 on road), but it no difference to running tubeless actually, or tubular come to think of it.

All this work on the ZTR Crest, tyres such as the Challenge may required a little more finesse, but should work ok.

And work in the pouring rain, no technique in the world gonna make that enjoyable.

Start opposite from 6 o'clock from the valve...

I always start at the valve as it's the most delicate part of the tube, so it's best to get the tyre over it when it's easiest.

Except you're more likely to pinch the inner tube that way.

I forget to mention - push the valve inward to move the inner tube away from between the rims and bead just to be sure.

Not been a problem for me, but I take your point.

Gone all in on my new ones:

Anyone had trouble with the freehub on Fulcrum Racing 77 / 7 LG? Having to send mine off for a replacement for the second time this year.

Could I use a 10 speed for a turbo wheel on an 11 speed group? I can't remember / don't know

No, it won't shift properly because the sprocket spacing is different. You could butcher an 11-speed cassette to fit on a 10-speed wheel by omitting one of the sprockets and spacers, e.g. CS-5800 lends itself to that. Would probably need the 10-speed spacer behind the cassette to get the lock-ring to work. Or save yourself the trouble by getting a Shimano RS010 rear wheel, they're under £50 new if you shop around.

As @mdcc_tester is right that it's not compatible, you can however run it as long you don't shift (2-3 gears).