Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

Go-to spokes for the same deal?

To be built onto Kinlin XR270. 28/28 should be enough?

I'd maybe say ACI double butted if they're cheaper than umop3pisdn's other suggestions.

Personally I wouldn't go less than 32h on the rear for general commuting duties even with a 30mm rim, just because there's no great weight / cost saving and you get a slightly stronger wheel when you're more likely to be carrying a heavy bag/stuff and hitting potholes.

Also 32/32h hubs and rims tend to be easier and cheaper to find.

Go-to flip flop hubs for general commuting duties?

Novatec, System Ex, Condor, On-One.
They're all exactly the same and perfectly good in my experience.

The On-Ones are the cheapest if they've got your colour/size but you can't navigate to them on their site. If you google "on-one track hubs" however...

Agreed.

Fwiw I've bought these for a similar purpose:

tensile.net/store/p23/Tensile­_Professional_Fixie_Hubs._Large_Flange._­Inc._Lock_Nut._Inc._delivery_in%C2%A0_Eu­rope.html

Interested to hear how you get on with these for daily use. They're very light.

DT Swiss Champion (or Alpine III)

Competition, not Champion. Or Sapim Race or ACI butted, they're all decent so it comes down to which you can get for the best price, which in turn usually comes down to whether you're buying other stuff from.the same shop as p&p is a big enough proportion of the total on 64 spokes to swing it.

Yeah I know.

I did really want the fake Phils for the looks and studyness, but theyre from Taiwan so the Tensile seemed easier.

Just need to order the DT Swiss R460 s and choose some spokes.... DT from Rose seem like good VFM at the moment.

Finally going to cough up the extra dough for black spokes.

Annoyingly I lent my stand and tensionmeter to a mate who has emigrated leaving everything in storage. So I may pay someone to build as I don't really like building without a tensionmeter anymore.

Hmmm...

Tensile all-mountain disc hubs give me the horn...

Commuter rim 32h. Fairly resilient. A319?

28c minimum.

Great rim

good rim

;)

Probably the best option as it's cheap and strong with decent sidewalls. Fairly tubby though.

If it's for commuting though, one of its big merits is that they're ubiquitous. So if anything goes wrong a replacements are easy.

It's on the mum bike 2.0.
It needs to be able to absorb the potholes of london's famous london roads while laden down with a pannier.

Thanks snottyotter and cycleclinic - I've built it up now and it's fine. I was a bit worried at how highly tensioned the drive-side needed to be at first, and thought something was wrong. Those nipples really took a lot of twisting.

Superstar Pave - Rear wheel, driveside spoke snappage. It's just one spoke gone but the wheel has gone 10mm+ out. eek!

Real question though, can I replace the Sapim laser with any other regular spoke with no ill effects?

Edit. Is it a good idea to replace all the drive side spokes with some DT comp or sapim race to strengthen up the DS?

Is it a good idea to replace all the drive side spokes with some DT comp or sapim race to strengthen up the DS?

I wouldn't be a bad idea as you're in there anyway. Actually, it wouldn't be a bad idea if Superstar stopped sucking up to idiotic weight weenies and built all their stock wheels with Comp/Race to start with.

Cheers @mdcc_tester - I'm guessing that lasers need to be built well with nice even tensioning to be reliable. Not sure Superstar do that!

Will go ahead and rebuild the drive side with comp spoke and add a hefty 5 grams to the wheel.

So some intoxicated ebaying has meant I've now got 2 pairs of dura-ace 7600 hubs (one rear in 110mm and the other 120mm) on the way from Japan. Last night I ordered some ball bearings and grease as I'll be giving them a service which is a first for me. A couple of packs of 1/4 inch and 3/16inch bearings and 125ml of shimano grease.

From the look of things it is fairly straightforward but if there is anything I should keep an eye on please let me know!

The plan is to build one pair up on mavic open pro's to put on an old Mercian Vincitore I've got which has a rear spacing of 110mm. Depending on time (and if Santa brings me a wheel truing stand) then I will try and build them myself so will be back here with a long list of questions ....

Congrats...? ;)

Don't overtighten cup/cone hubs is important & the nuts can be hard to get off.

Track wheels have no dishing so theyre ideal for a first build :)

I'm guessing that lasers need to be built well with nice even tensioning to be reliable

That applies to any spoke. Lasers need to be consigned to the dustbin of history.

Track wheels have no dishing

Single-sided 7600 rears, like most other single-sided track hubs, are dished.

The 120mm is fixed and the 110mm rear is fixed/fixed so I guess I can practice on both,

To check the cups for wear, run an old ballpoint pen along the bearing track: you'll feel any pits.

I stand Testered

I've not built in single-sided, so hence the oversight.
And yes I calculate my spoke lengths...cos, well, it's an expensive mistake to make if you get it wrong ;)

Any suggestions on a cheap but workable truing stand?

Minoura, my old one has served me well, the current FT1 seems to be cheapest from http://www.bike-discount.de/en/buy/minoura-ft-1-portable-wheel-truing-stand-52013

May be cheaper from Rosebikes if you're also getting some DT spokes, as they currently have free shipping over €100