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• #5327
If you can find one within budget, the Herman Miller Setu is seriously nice. No moving parts on the reclining mechanism, so not adjustable, but I found it to be pretty spot on in terms of support. Uses a flexible parallelogram type mechanism in place of all the levers etc. Makes it nice and light too.
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• #5328
Is the estate agent standing in the bath?
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• #5329
No, the photographer is... wit ha wide lens that makes the room look slightly less small and dingy.
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• #5330
I have one at work...
He said: "that wont burn a massive hole in my wallet" though so I don't think it's worth recommending one.
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• #5332
I might give knocking something like this up actually... fill the sink end of the bathroom with a made to fit vanity unit - which uses the walls instead of sides, so kinda two shelves with a couple of connecting uprights. Thinking of gluing together two thinner boards as I dont have a special saw to cut channels. Crazy talk?
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• #5333
Ha, just did some research and concluded the same... although the fact that technically it'll be two shelves with some uprights means I prob wont even need them...
I'm looking froward to this now, been great sounding ideas off with folks on here. -
• #5334
Hi folks,
I live in an Edwardian house and my daughter's bedroom and my study both appear to have zero insulation between the ceiling and the tiles so I'm pouring out heat (and shivering!)
The simplest solution looks to be to attach Celotex type insulating panels to the ceiling from the inside, but no way am I taking down the old ceilings (done that before with 100 year old lathe and black plaster and no way am I doing that again!)
I have a stud finder to locate the joists, but I see that insta-stick PU foam is also recommended - like builder's foam but not very 'expandy'. Anyone used this stuff? Or used a different method?
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• #5335
Often wondered ow they repaired broken biscuits.
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• #5336
Depends if you can get in to the roof space. But if you can that is your best bet.
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• #5337
I cant stand sinks that arent flush with the countertop.
When you splash water everywhere, the water will invariably destroy the wood. its a pain in the ass to clean.
You might as well lay towels around the edge to catch all the water.
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• #5338
biscuit fish?
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• #5339
Yeah wouldn't be getting stupid round ones like that... decent sized sink and a lot of treating of the wood and it'll be fine i'm sure.
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• #5340
Sealed properly, it is fine.
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• #5341
I wish I had access above! Basically the room is an attic conversion (although not a conversion, original Georgian) so coming in from the outside it's tiles, tarpaper, battens, beams, lathe and plaster. To insulate traditionally I'd have to take the roof off a three story building..... Not gonna happen.
Has to be done internally unfortunately.
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• #5342
thanks for the chair recco guis .. will go through.
I am drawn towards the ones that dont look like an office chair; here is a bad example: http://www.ikea.com/gb/en/catalog/products/30262528/
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• #5343
nice stools.
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• #5344
I eat a lot of fibre.
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• #5345
Staple alumaflex to the whole of the roof and walls, tape the joints. Screw tile batten horizontally across the alumaflex fixed into the rafters. Put the tile batten at 400 centres. Plasterboard. Can't make any promises about condensation behind the alumaflex but if taped thoroughly it shouldn't happen.
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• #5346
Not a bad idea, thanks mate.
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• #5347
Tips for staining a stripped and sanded banister/handrail? Want it to be dark and rich and a durable finish. What are the best products to use?
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• #5348
Not keen on polystyrene,
especially when you have fire retardant insulation bonded onto plasterboard: -
• #5349
Shall I tell you a hard thing?
Getting a 140Kg piece of glass up onto scaffolding around the roof level of a house, that's a hard thing.
I think I need a HIAB.
BOO
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• #5350
How dark?
http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/Fun_with_VinegarandIron_Dye_Stains.html
I've made some of this, with multiple applications you can get pretty dark, of course you'd need to oil or poly the finish.
Looks decent. Think my main problem for all these is gonna be that my thermostat doesn't work on a low voltage call-for-heat circuit; it works on mains voltage and a relay switch. Might just get the nest/hive +pro installation and not blow myself up.