Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

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  • There's plenty. XR200 is 19mm wide but weighs around 385g. R460 is 23mm wide and weighs 460g. But the ERDs are very close (594 v 596) so they can be swapped easily.

  • I meant the ERD, sorry, I should have been more specific. The mass of the dt is putting me off.

  • The mass of the dt is putting me off

    Do the maths, you'll get over it. Even if you are going up a 10% slope at 20mph, that extra 75g will cost you less than 1W, and you'll even get some of that back in lower rolling resistance just from the change in profile of the tyres you're already using.

  • Mismatched wheels bother me

  • Mismatched wheels bother me

    Get two R460s and enjoy the benefits of wider rims at both ends.

  • Yes. I had thought that.

  • Got a set of xr200 laced up should sell them as I never use them. I prefer a wider rim. I am not slower. So I would get over it too. Also the brake track is way better and does not pulse.

  • This thread has helped me decide buying a new rim is the way forward and then buying two new rims is better....
    Great job guys!

  • buying is the way forward and buying two is better.

    We're great at spending other people's money

  • Will have DT460 envy even so I have a few Ardennes Plus ;-)

  • I'm having a bit of a nightmare building a new Campy Record rear hub onto a DT Swiss R460 with 292mm and 290mm (drive side) spokes. It's my first rear wheel with cassette build.

    The drive-side spokes have to be very tight to maintain the dish. As soon as the non-drive side spokes are tensioned much beyond the nipple driver stage, the dishing goes out again and the drive-sides need ratcheting up to a point where they can't go any further.

    I got my spoke lengths from Edd, and Wheelpro gives about .2mm shorter. Maybe the ERD is out, even though internet seems to agree on 596mm?

    Should I try longer spokes?

  • The length are about right. A rims with ERD 53 mm uses 288/290mm with those hubs.

    Yes the ds spokes need to be tight 1200N tight in fact. Nds tension is what ever it is to get it dished.

  • Once you have stress received you will have bedded in the spokes and stretched them a bit this will allow a bit of extra turn on the nipples to keep the threads covered.

  • Can't go any further as you are running out of thread or they are getting too much tension? Either shorter driveside so they can tighten more or something else is wrong. Longer spokes would just run into the same problem a few turns later unless they are actually to short to engage enough.
    From an equalish tension all round, say where the thread just disappears into the nipples add a few turns to all the spokes until things tighten up a bit, then add more to the driveside until dish is right, then sort out any wobbles, adding more until tension is enough.

  • I'm after a set of those fake Phil hubs with Allen key bolts, but can't find them on the bay.

    Does anyone know what they're called, where to buy them, or any other Allen key bolt alternatives. 32/32h* in black.

    *28/32h may also be an option.

  • You might enjoy the high flange mack hubs allen key as well

  • What disc rims for road riding? black ~30mm deep?

  • DT RR511 is available in a disc brake version, I think Ugo likes the Velocity Aileron

  • thanks!

  • Go-to flip flop hubs for general commuting duties?
    Go-to spokes for the same deal?

    To be built onto Kinlin XR270. 28/28 should be enough?

  • Novatec, DT Swiss Champion (or Alpine III), yeah probs but might as well go 32/32.

  • A source for replacement axles for the Formula branded flip-flop hubs?

  • Cheers! Also remembered about these Tensile hubs, Allen bolts, similar price
    http://www.tensile.net/store/p23/Tensile_Professional_Fixie_Hubs._Large_Flange._Inc._Lock_Nut._Inc._delivery_in%C2%A0_Europe.html

    @Thuekr - Mach are a bit pricey for the intended purpose.... Plus I was aiming to build for this winter rather than next...or the one after.

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Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

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