Cold, raw, white-hot metal. Mixture of Track, ATB, Hybrid with aftermarket parts. a bike for 1%er. SNAFU

The rolling resistance of the chain going round the cogs?

Will higher teeth on freewheel (eg 22t) reduce rolling resistance as much as the lower tooth chainring?

I don't think this is a relevant argument (for you and this bike), especially since budgeting is a (big) theme of this project (and not speed/efficiency). So I'd go for the cheaper solution.

I think you're correct in that less teeth cause less resistance, but firstly you won't be able to notice this and and secondly less teeth wear down the cogs/chainring faster.

If you're talking about the gear ratio then yes indeed, it doesn't matter if you use a smaller chainring or a bigger cog/freewheel; the ratio between the two changes in a way that the pedaling will become easier using both methods.

Intuitively I'd say that wrapping the chain round a tighter curve (which is what you're doing with a smaller cog) would cause higher resistance but a) I could be wrong and b) the difference would be unnoticeable

I meant it in terms of gear ratios as Tijs says. Never heard of cog and chainring rolling resistance before now : )

With these 35c tyres I find it slightly hard to go up small hills, gain speed and maintain after I stop pedalling.

That is why I am looking to get smaller teeth chainring but since Tijs says it does not matter what is changed I will get the freewheel in 22t. The current chainring is 47t. The current freewheel is 18t

That is why I am looking to get smaller teeth chainring but since Tijs says it does not matter what is changed I will get the freewheel in 22t. The current chainring is 47t. The current freewheel is 18t

Remember that removing 1 tooth from the chainring doesn't have the same effect as adding 1 tooth to the cog/freewheel; it's about the ratio between the two.

So for example 48/16 is equal to 42/14 (divide both sets of numbers and you get the equal number of 3). How many teeth you need to add to your cog/freewheel to achieve the gear ratio best suited for you is for a large part trial and error and dependent on how hilly your area is and how strong you are.

Going from 47/18 to 47/22t is a huge difference though. I ride 48/19 on my city bike (which is slightly easier than your 47/18) and I find it quite spinny. But your miles may vary!

Thank you. Considering what you have said about your 48/19 I am not gonna go for 22T but 20T and try it out. the area is not that hilly there are just 4-5 regular hills i ride. i am not strong.

Looked at this calculator http://www.bikecalc.com/cadence_at_speed

With 47Tx20T, I will only have to do 53 rotations per minute to achieve the 10-15 mph.

Whereas with 47Tx22T, I will have to do 58 rotations per minute to achieve the 10-15 mph.

Gotta say I preferred the original ratty paint. Plus if you're spending money on it there are a bunch of places it could be better used but hey, its your bike. Glad you're (seemingly) enjoying it. Thats the main bit.

Where would you spend if this was your bike?

The main reason I am enjoying this bike is that I can do anything to it, it is a flexible frame. customise it in whichever way you want

Getting rid of the fake identity.

I saw a bike with raw frame and I want that look so paint must come off.

How do you stop the raw frame from acquiring that brown rusty finish?

thank you, i did not know about clear lacquer. How many coats did you apply on your frame? Did you get any sheen?

2 coats, and yes, a bit of a shine

I used a whole can of clear lacquer on a frame once, just kept re-coating until it ran out. After 2 or 3 winters being kept in a garage with the door open though it has started to surface rust in a few places but I don't mind.

Stem, seatpost, saddle, bars. In that order.

there are a bunch of places it could be better used

None of those are really "better" are they though? Bar potentially the saddle they're just different aesthetic choices.

Surely that makes it better. Obviously they're just personal preferences.

^ would you not say paint is an aethestic point?

@wqvm
You can use such thing as paint stripper to ridden the paint off the frame. Can also probably be gotten from halfords and despite it not getting everything will hassen future repsray endeavours.

^ would you not say paint is an aethestic point?

Perhaps the choice of colour of paint is an aesthetic point but the choice to have paint at all is a functional one.

OK fine, but changing paint is largely for aesthetical reasons within normal circumstances.

OK fine, but changing paint is largely for aesthetical reasons within normal circumstances.> lines starting with a 'greater than' denote quoted text

I like your enthusiasm but sometimes you come up with absolute and utter shit it's like isn't there something on television.

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Ordered this £4 clear lacquer.

Got rid of almost all of the paint.

Made two holes for rear brake cable. Even if the holes are tight some rain might still go inside the top tube.

I agree with @hugo7. buying new parts you mention will not improve the comfort of this ride.

This is going a bit official free world

Wait, you've spent like 350 bucks or something on this and this,

Is your seating arrangment?

Paints half of frame blue for no reason - removes all paint about a week later.

I'm not suggesting they would. Although with that stem it must ride a bit like a dutch bike. Maybe thats what you want. Also if that shim ever slips it could be painful.

Anyway nevermind, you drilled holes in your top tube now. Its only a matter of time. Normally those holes would've been reinforced.