Anyone know anything about disc brakes?

I think that similar to vee brake/canti pull ratios a system will be designed with a certain amount of fluid movement and this might match between brands/models but may not.

If it doesn't, it's not always the end of the world. I've used a lever that originally was with a 4pot calliper with a 2 pot calliper and found that the lever/master cylinder pushing out a greater volume of fluid just meant that I had loads of pad clearance.

Conversely, I've used a Hope brake that had the wrong lever fitted (all Hope components) and it was just mushy and horrible (didn't need bled).

I think* if the master cylinder pushes more fluid than the calliper is designed for then you get loads of clearance on the pads but not much power once they hit and vice versa.

*could be totally wrong.

Ok - I need a bit of advice and know jack about disc brakes.

My new bike has TRP Hylex brakes and have about three weeks use. In the past week or so when braking the dry there has been a noticeable shudder from the front wheel.

Riding in this morning in the rain two new and unpleasant symptoms arose. Firstly braking power was vastly diminished and secondly the brakes made a godawful squealing noise - I should think the whole of CS7 heard it.

I think I bedded in the pads properly - certainly followed manufacturers advice. Thoughts on how to solve the problem appreciated.

Riding in this morning in the rain two new and unpleasant symptoms arose. Firstly braking power was vastly diminished and secondly the brakes made a godawful squealing noise - I should think the whole of CS7 heard it.

Sounds like contaminated pads / rotors. Check calipers for leaks. If there are none, take out pads and give them a good clean with disc brake cleaner. Give rotors a good scrub too. If you feel adventurous you can use something abrasive which removes the pad residue and allows you to bed them in again from fresh.

If you find a leak...warantee job.

Thanks - my plan for a maintenance free winter commuter or not going to plan so far then!

Squeal could be pads not aligned properly to rotor.

Well - you or one of your colleagues will be responsible for fixing it! going to drop the bike in this evening.

Not me, see what they says about it.

This was one of the points made in the CTC article

Mind you, what sort of bike were you riding and what bars? As to bars I think flat bars and levers work far better fully loaded than drops ..

Good article: http://cyclingtips.com.au/2015/10/road-bikes-are-headed-towards-through-axels-but-why/

Disagree I'm afraid.

The article fails entirely to even mention what is arguably the largest reason for through axles to make it to road bikes - sales.

isnt sales the holy grail anyway? the reason behind everything, the reason we all get out of bed every day.

buddha/10

Not so much. ;)

I bought some replacement pads for my hope m4s ages ago.

Finally dragged the fatbike into the workroom to swap them.
Searched through parts boxes to find them.
They are fecking tiny!
FFS

Box says M4. But they are obviously wrong.

Is there another brake called M4?

There's old 2 part callipers, think the same pad will fit an M4, an E4 or Enduro 4 and a DH4 all of which look pretty similar (and subsequently are often sold with the wrong name on ebay etc) . I think they take one small pad with square(ish) area of pad material per piston so the 4 pots need 4 pads.

Then there's the new one piece callipers, mono m4, tech m4 maybe some other names. They use one longer pad per side, I take it that's what you're looking for?

You probably have these,

and want these,

I'd look for 'Tech' or 'Mono' in the title/description in future.

I managed to lose one of those little spring clips (a bit like the ones pictured above) from my Spyres last week. Anyone know where I can source a replacement?

Exactly.

Fuck it.

180mm powertap rotors?
Hens teeth, or non existent.

Dab of threadlock on the retainer pin threads will do the job

Running a 160mm rotor on a frame With 180mm post Mounts?

Sounds impossible. But I reckon it might just be doable.

Thoughts?

Maybe a IS caliper?

1 Attachment

The ultra-rare PM to IS magura mount I have pushes the rotor up a size, from 160 to 180.

I wanted it to go down though?

I have some many adaptors at home. Bet none of them would work.

Yeah i know. I was 'just sayin'.

Helpful........

I'm dropping the meta SL frame idea, and keeping the powertap.

So just need to find cheap 100/120mm travel, 26/27.5 wheeled frame now.

Obviously the way to do this, is by building around a power meter.

If you roll 28H rear and 24H rims on rim braked steed, is there a magic formula for disc brake spoke count or should it be the same?

That adapter goes 160 post to 160 is, so no help.

http://clee-cycles.co.uk/esite/P1043/product