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That is why I am looking to get smaller teeth chainring but since Tijs says it does not matter what is changed I will get the freewheel in 22t. The current chainring is 47t. The current freewheel is 18t
Remember that removing 1 tooth from the chainring doesn't have the same effect as adding 1 tooth to the cog/freewheel; it's about the ratio between the two.
So for example 48/16 is equal to 42/14 (divide both sets of numbers and you get the equal number of 3). How many teeth you need to add to your cog/freewheel to achieve the gear ratio best suited for you is for a large part trial and error and dependent on how hilly your area is and how strong you are.
Going from 47/18 to 47/22t is a huge difference though. I ride 48/19 on my city bike (which is slightly easier than your 47/18) and I find it quite spinny. But your miles may vary!
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Thank you. Considering what you have said about your 48/19 I am not gonna go for 22T but 20T and try it out. the area is not that hilly there are just 4-5 regular hills i ride. i am not strong.
Looked at this calculator http://www.bikecalc.com/cadence_at_speed
With 47Tx20T, I will only have to do 53 rotations per minute to achieve the 10-15 mph.
Whereas with 47Tx22T, I will have to do 58 rotations per minute to achieve the 10-15 mph.
I meant it in terms of gear ratios as Tijs says. Never heard of cog and chainring rolling resistance before now : )
With these 35c tyres I find it slightly hard to go up small hills, gain speed and maintain after I stop pedalling.
That is why I am looking to get smaller teeth chainring but since Tijs says it does not matter what is changed I will get the freewheel in 22t. The current chainring is 47t. The current freewheel is 18t