• Intuitively I'd say that wrapping the chain round a tighter curve (which is what you're doing with a smaller cog) would cause higher resistance but a) I could be wrong and b) the difference would be unnoticeable

  • I meant it in terms of gear ratios as Tijs says. Never heard of cog and chainring rolling resistance before now : )

    With these 35c tyres I find it slightly hard to go up small hills, gain speed and maintain after I stop pedalling.

    That is why I am looking to get smaller teeth chainring but since Tijs says it does not matter what is changed I will get the freewheel in 22t. The current chainring is 47t. The current freewheel is 18t

  • That is why I am looking to get smaller teeth chainring but since Tijs says it does not matter what is changed I will get the freewheel in 22t. The current chainring is 47t. The current freewheel is 18t

    Remember that removing 1 tooth from the chainring doesn't have the same effect as adding 1 tooth to the cog/freewheel; it's about the ratio between the two.

    So for example 48/16 is equal to 42/14 (divide both sets of numbers and you get the equal number of 3). How many teeth you need to add to your cog/freewheel to achieve the gear ratio best suited for you is for a large part trial and error and dependent on how hilly your area is and how strong you are.

    Going from 47/18 to 47/22t is a huge difference though. I ride 48/19 on my city bike (which is slightly easier than your 47/18) and I find it quite spinny. But your miles may vary!

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