Any question answered...

http://www.columbustubi.com/eng/4_2_6.htm

Are Planet X titanium quick relese skewers a good or bad idea? I am sure I read somewhere on here they don't work well?

closed cam or gtfo

if you want to save weight but dont want to spend £££ then something like this: http://www.wiggle.co.uk/halo-hex-key-skewers-pair/

if you want QR and light then spend megabucks on Zipp, Lightweight etc.

I got them for my HC bike and used them on my road bike all summer. Might just be in my head but my wheels felt flexy all summer, might just be my mad watts though.

Unless you're completely obsessed with weight I'd go enclosed cam. I'd disagree with amey, no point spending any more on light QRs, they do the job ok.

I will give them a miss then. Cheers.

I used them. I put down ze power on jackass lane. Wheel popped out. Dented rim. New wheels. Best 20 quid I spent.....

Have been looking that way. The Turkish bakers near specsavers is boss.

Could be my mad shit power, but those weenies skewers have been fine for me for years.

maybe y'all need to upgrade your arm power and do them up tight...

I was happy with mine for a couple of years until my front wheel developed a squeal under hard braking. Turned out to be the skewers.
Closed cam or die a fiery death.

I didn't even get to use mine long, I bent them after about 2 weeks of ownership.

I used them. I put down ze power on jackass lane. Wheel popped out. Dented rim. New wheels. Best 20 quid I spent.....

Bringing the mad watts.

Something similar happened to me on Pilgrims on LFGSSCC ride

Little enough too big that once I'd (noticed and) filed off the little bur from the front of the seat cluster lug a 27.2 would fit in so, problem solved.

I've a cheap set of digitals at home which currently have some sort of issue with the digital display going mental but at least they can be read manually however I'm currently at work where we have the Park ones which have a flat battery and are not so easy to read manually as there's nothing actually near the manual scale to take a reading from.

It.can't be that mad. Trainer road thinks I can only ftp 76watts.

I understand why you have a dent in the drive side chainstay but why would you have a matching dent in the NDS chainstay?

to clear the dark matter chainset, obvs..

Emma's new bike has matching dents on both sides. Just trying to work out what the NDS one is for.

Probably

There's no 'probably' about it, but if you're in any doubt you can get a cheap digital one and calibrate it to Mitutoyo standard and still be quids in compared with buying the most basic Mitutoyo vernier caliper. I've told plenty of people that they can't afford nice bike parts if they can't also afford nice tools with which to install and maintain them, and I'll be dropping big hints in the run up to Christmas about the Mitutoyo micrometer I want to add to my tool box, but I also think it doesn't do to be too snobbish when the facts don't support it. For normal cyclists who need to identify bike parts by measuring (e.g. seat posts, bearing balls and cartridges, BB threads, handlebar diameter) there are a limited number of right answers, and being able to have a fair degree of confidence that you can measure to within ±0.1mm is sufficient.

I understand why you have a dent in the drive side chainstay but why would you have a matching dent in the NDS chainstay?

For balance. If you don't have it, the bike will constantly turn right. This is especially important on track bikes, obviously.

Lols, that's why all my other bikes turn right.

Probably but I'd rather have a cheap manual set personally.

Doesn't cheap digital also show the rulers on the set too?

Work perfectly well.

My ones at home do, I think, but the Park ones are harder to read manually. There's no mark on the scale, you kinda have to just follow the line of the arm up to the scale, not very accurate.

Think I might invest in a nice manual set for at home.

Dial ones good for added precision or is the dial just likely to be another source of unreliability?

If you are not absolutely sure of why you're getting anything else, just get one of the cheap digital ones ~£10. The ability to zero at any point plus the unambiguous display and usually switch-able units make them a no-brainer compared with a conventional vernier scale. This from a tart who is about to get a Mitutoyo mechanical micrometer with a vernier scale, but I will still do 90% of my measuring with a cheap no-brand digital caliper.

A long shot - does anyone remember a BBC (I think) TV programme late 70s or early 80s (I remember watching it with my nan) that involved a Russian nuclear sub with a mutated submariner on the prowl in the UK (possibly a Scottish naval base). I seem to remember he was mutated becasue of the radiation and therefore was all black (like a silhouette)with sparkly bits. Any one remember what it maight have been called?

Flip^ that sounds nuts.