Electronic & Hydraulic Shifting (Di2, Ui2, customisations)

Ok, so the question is, really, anyone fitted internal Di2 to a PX Stealth?

It'll be 2x11 with the front derailler cable-operated.

Y? Since you are getting a pair of shifters it'll just cost €145 more for front mech.

You dont necessarily have to drill holes; just check if they are there ;)

This guy: http://www.tritalk.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=84752

You can check yourself tho. All you need is a hole entering DT and exit drive side chain stay. The holes should be able to take SD50 cable which are I think 3mm. Otherwise drill time.

Because 145eu, because 2 extra cables and because I can't sell other shifter pod off. So it's more like 200eu for something I hardly use. Also, the front rings are supposed to, ah shit, the chain will need to be 11spd which means the chainrings will need to be 11spd, which means the crank will need to change.

Is there 10spd Ultegra Di2 that's not in the old format?

Can't see any detail on internal wiring.

This is why I should just buy a spare Shiv. :)

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Specialized-S-Works-Shiv-/111806504432?hash=item1a082fddf0:g:uCsAAOSwPYZU4OnT

Is there 10spd Ultegra Di2 that's not in the old format?

I have no idea what shimano did (maybe pulled the stock) but 6770 is almost non existant. You could find something on forums ebay etc. But 6870 is cheap enough to justify buying new. Its e-tube so it should work. But 6770 rear mech is ugly and heavy.

Front mech sounds like ball ache. Yeah stay with mechanical I'd say for more agile approach. Or 1x11 ;)

1x11 could work but I use this piece of shit for audax as well so it's not all bashing up and down A roads.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1EY7lYRneHc

Wanna race?

The last guy that rode an audax with me ended up like this...

:)

10 speed and 11 speed chainrings are the same width - the internal width of the chain is the same, it's just the link plates that are thinner. You could run an 11 speed chain on your 10 speed drive train without issue.

If your front shifting is shit then that's the biggest reason to go Di2 in my view- it's the USP, as come what may, come hell or high water, you hit the button and the chain will move chainrings at the front. Or the whole frame will explode.

I'd go full rather than a cable/electric mash-up, and you can do a very effective install using helicopter tape to secure the cables to the outside of the frame - under the chainstay, the underside of the DT etc. No need to get all driller-killer.

what neil said

Front shifting works and doesn't happen very often so I see no point in changing it.

Rear shifting happens a fair bit and I'm getting tired of the broken cable stabbing me. Also, Di2 rules when it comes to not fucking up your wrists. I guess it wouldn't be a huge amount more to get both but I was trying to keep it cheap as.

Is the external stuff any cheaper? I know it's going on a shit bike but I prefer the cleaner appearance and protected nature of the internal setup.

#buyhippyanothershiv

maybe he needs to invest in cycling specific shoes ;)

They were purchased after his ankles exploded, showering half of France with flesh and bone, eh @scultura? :)

Is the external stuff any cheaper?

The opposite.

Try 1x11 and if it doesent work out get back to the mash up? All you need is a 50t (or something) narrow wide ring, some bolts and 11 speed chain. Won't be that pricey.

You can either use the traditional external battery, or mount the meant-to-be internal one on the outside somewhere, then put it in the seatpost when you get a free frame from Specialised for your brand loyalty.

Honestly, having one system to troubleshoot is going to be more straightforward than two - imagine if your focus had a manual gearbox supplying power to one wheel with an auto box driving the other.

You're comparing a front derailler with TT friction shifter, literally the most simple shifting device I've ever used to a weird car gearbox... that's the worst attempt at making me poorer I've seen :P

The single button tt shifters are nice. Especially if it's a training bike. That you might ride off season with gloves on.

1 X 11 with them would be my choice. They ain't cheap though.

Otherwise. Front shifting might not happen much. But front trimming will. And that's auto on di2

Shifters: 149.90eu
bike24.com/1.php?content=8;pr­oduct=35016;menu=1000,4,38;page=3

You can only use those shifters if you're using the combined brake lever/shifter pods as your main shifters. If you're just having gear shifters on the extensions, then you'll need the SW-9071 shifters instead. I think.

Front trimming doesn't happen much. It's a TT bike that's mostly in 3-4 gears at the back.

Problem with buying the whole shebang is I'll want to upgrade the rest of the bike to justify it having a grand's worth of Di2 installed. Yes, that is a problem, it cuts into my beer money.

Huh? That's not right. How have I been changing gears on the race bike all this time? OMG I've been stuck in one gear all this time, no wonder I'm so slow. :P

The Shiv only has extension shifters and they're the double button ones for front and rear.

I kinda struggle to see why you don't just scrap the front mech all together.

Then get the single button shifters. Except that they are weirdly expensive.

I really like mine. Im a clumsy idiot though. So need to set my kit up to withstand use by a labotomised ape. One hand, one button. Can't get easier than that.

Because it's not a race bike and I like my knees to work so when audax peeps throw in another 25%er at the 400k mark, I'd like to have the option of the double. Bro, do you even climb?

Weirdly expensive is going against the brief.

Ah. the whole tt audax thing.

Mine are on tri extentions. Which I simply don't use for hilly tris.

You could go the cateye remote switch bodge route. Seems a faff though.

Worth checking eBay. Folk sell on single shifters for various reasons.

about time you get a custom bike?