Power Meters / Powermeters (SRM, Powertap, Quarq, Ergomo, Vector, Stages, power2max, P2M, 4iii, InPower, Cinch)

Always good to have spares for when the inevitable happens

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I think you're beyond ultimate buyer. Your buying exists in a parallel universe where everything normally considered excessive is multiplied by 4.

17 power meters. 6 track powertaps. What the actual....
I'm speechless.

Sounds perfectly reasonable.

... for a national track dev squad.

Is anyone else running a Quarq with 52x34 chainrings? I don't really want to use a 50 and wonder how shifting will be affected with the drop from a 52 to 34. One of my bikes is limited to a 28 cassette and I live in a hilly place.

wonder how shifting will be affected with the drop from a 52 to 34

It might not work at all, front road-double dérailleur cages tend to be fairly tightly sized to accommodate a 16T difference, so the chain could rub on the top or bottom of the cage in either the big/big or small/small gear.

Of course, if you learned to pedal you'd find 50/12 more than adequate as a top gear, rendering the question moot.

if you learned to pedal you'd find 50/12 more than adequate as a top gear

100rpm = 52.kph

Most people are happiest spinning around this. They're not happy holding above 120 for much. Fat people and lonely testers can just get tucked or whatever but won't someone please think of the skinny roadies holding wheels or breaking away?

Why compromise yourself when things get really quick (when you need it the most)?

36x28 is nice.

Sit down and call it a strength drill?

11-28 cassette?

50:11 is pretty quick.

I live in a very very hilly place and have settle on a 52/36. I have 11-25, and 12-29 cassettes though.

I've had a top gear of 53/13 on my road bike for a year and haven't really had a problem.

I hit 90km/h on the flat* last weekend- it can be windy round here.

*maybe "rolling", but I'd left the mountains by then.

I am enormously fat though, and had 52x11 at my disposal.

90km/h

Skinsuit's working then.

The whole gearing thing is so dependent on application, individual and how you can keep your power up with fatigue/hr low.

It's great for this terrain at this time of year - 15% climbs and 30 degrees C:

Simply can't look at folk riding in sunshine at the moment.

It's so bloody cold and dark up here.

My P2M hates the turbo. Drops out of communication with both my garmin and my trainer Road set up.

Still getting the odd spike too. Although that doesn't really have an effect, with my use.

I've a p2M for sale. Brand spanking new SRAM rival 172.5mm, 53/39, GXP BB, Sitting in a box in my cupboard and isn't going to be used. £420 please.

Classic?

Indeed.

Ugh. Changing batteries on a p2m without taking the cranks off.. Pita.
Also - what's with the stupidly recessed screws under the rubber plugs ffs? I'm going to have to buy a screwdriver especially for this...

Trouble is at 18% gradient I'm pushing a cadence well below 70

Thanks Tester. While I can train to pedal at 140rpm this doesn't happen overnight and my other bikes both have 53/39s

Those small screwdrivers you get for electronics work fine.

My P2M is spiking still. Might have to see if I can send it back. Annoying

Email them, they took mine back (at my cost) and did some magic on it.

@dan The battery is super easy to change. Just need a small phillips screwdriver and I used needle nose pliers to take the bung out. The bung is to stop water ingress. No need to remove cranks and <2min job.