Home DIY

The idea was to be able to easily add and remove cables in future without lifting boards. In reality I don't know how easy this would be as I think they might catch on the corners. I'm going to bolt or screw in the boards above anyway for easy future access.

Lots of data and audio cables will run from the two alcoves, under the floor of this room and my bedroom next door, to a utility area we have at the back where my computer will be. This'll handle all av/ work/ gaming/ nas duties. It's big and noisy though, so didn't want it in the room.

Take a page out of BT's book and run a few pieces of (strong) string as well as the cables. That way can pull extra cables (as well as more string) at a later date.

Yep, on it.

I was mostly kidding.

mostly is right, some of the wall plates are in a terrible state, but they seem to be firm enough. If they were in a higher traffic area, or I was planning to be in this house for more than 5 years, I probably go to town on it, but as it is it's just not worth the hassle right now. Too many other things I need to move on to.

3 x 4 m lengths of white primed MDF or hdf skirting.
Bullnose / pencil profile.
Delivery in se London. Are there local traders rather than interweb types pls?

Thanks.

@silly: couldn't you have skirting with a rebate?

I guess that would be possible, but my skirting will probably be stuck on, making future access impossible, plus they needed to go under the floor of the next door room too, out to a back porch we have where the PC and main router will be kept.

Ah. I see. I was looking at skirting (see above) last night and came to teh conclusion that rebating makes everything tidy, but it's fairly permanent as an option.

As much as it pains me to admit, the trunking was a bit of a waste of time and money, I've actually done away with a lot of it as it was taking away from the overall length of the cables too much.

Removing wallpaper. What a fucking shit job.

The filing and sanding after will also be a PITA.

Are you soaking the backing paper thoroughly with water (possibly with an additive that lower the surface tension). It makes it much easier to remove. You just need to pierce the top layer by scoring/paper tiger/scraper. There's a product called dif you can use to clean up the adhesive residue.

For filling try Toupret TX110 (I think that's what it's called). It's easy to mix, drys quickly and sands well. It does take some time/skill to get previously papered walls looking good though.

Also Red Devil One Time if you need something which is slightly flexible but also sandable. I used to use flexible spreaders for filling, but now prefer a plasterer's trowel. Also, wet all cavities with mist to make sure you get a solid bond. Saves it cracking and falling out later.

Toupret also have a one time filler. I used to use red devil as it was one of the first to market but it has a chemical in it which makes my eyes sore. I've never had a problem with TX110 cracking or shrinking and you can vary the setting time by varying the temperature of the water in the mix.

Also stopped using wallpaper strippers as the wetting solutions are as effective without the problems associated with filling rooms full of steam/dripping scalding water.

Sorry to ask again: who will deliver 4 m lengths of skirting (MDF - pencil/bullnose) to my house from SE London, rather than outside london?

ta

Might be the sort of thing Whitten Timber (Peckham) would do, though they're not the cheapest. There's a place on Acre lane too. Might even be called Acre Lane timber now I think about it.

I need a joiner to make me a loft hatch. Any recommends? SE15.

Cheers.
If anyone needs any double glazing repaired in the S London areas:
Woodcocks glass.

Anyone got any recommendation for where to purchase some good quality solid wood worktops (not London based). Not looking to spend big money though. Something around £250 max for 2m and 3m lengths. Cheers

http://www.worktop-express.co.uk/

a friend did his this way, didn't think they'd be any cop, pleasantly surprised..

He got a free cop? Awesome!

Regarding the rotten ceiling from page 199, here it is with the bonding applied. Also used a corner trowel to rebuild the left hand side of the chimney breast as it had been smashed off.

use a liqourice bootlace as a straight edge??

It's easier to use a batten and plaster up to it, then pop the batten off and if you must use a corner trowel, use one then to smooth it. On the other hand you could have put a steel corner edge and plastered over it which save from future damage. You don't need much protection at that height/close to the side wall though. If it's your first plastering job then well done.

Yes, it gets a corner edge bead before the skim coat which makes it straight! The bonding is just there to give something for the edge bead to attach to before more plaster.

I've just done my living room before starting this which you can see below. I'll try and find some before pictures too...

Wish I'd used the photo-stitch on my original photos. Anyway, the living room before:

My Bosch 18v cordless drill wasn't coping with whatever diamond filled titanium makes up the walls in our flat. So obviously I went for a subtle replacement....

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