Power Meters / Powermeters (SRM, Powertap, Quarq, Ergomo, Vector, Stages, power2max, P2M, 4iii, InPower, Cinch)

I've realised i definitely put out about 10% more watts on my old bike compared to one I got around 6 weeks ago.

How can this be? Am using the same PM and same testing protocol. Would geometry of the two bikes make a difference? Maybe coz I'm so used to the old bike my muscles are better adapted to it? Both bikes have had the same bike fit measurements applied to them as far as possible....

If the fit is the same then I can't see why your power output should be different.

Yeh, it doesn't make sense!

I just feel way faster, more natural and stronger on one bike over the other. My only conclusion is that there must be some small differences in the fits due to the different geometries... It can't be possible to have them both exactly the same surely?

Was/is your old bike red?

Noice.

Should be able to. First get your saddle angle correct. I use the bubble app on my phone and a piece of wood on top of the saddle (to take the saddle curvature out of the equation). Do this for both bikes on the same piece of floor in case of any dips etc. I do it using my turbo on the same spot.

Then get your saddle height and setback relative to BB centre correct first. You can get that identical on both bikes. Its useful to have a reference point at the centre the saddle rails to measure through to the saddle top. Having the same saddle on both bikes helps.

For setback you can measure from a wall to BB centre and then wall to saddle tip and take the difference. Once you have the saddle sorted, get the reach and drop from the saddle nose to the handlebars the same. For reach, depending on where you spend the majority of the time when cycling, you might want to measure from saddle tip to the hoods of your levers. To get the drop the same just measure off the floor to top of saddle and to the bars then take the difference. Get the height correct via stem spacers and the reach via correct length stem.

Also crank length, pedals, pedal stack. Keep em the same

I got a warning an hour into a 90 min ride on Sunday.. Nothing happened... Just done another hour on the turbo tonight and its still going. Sods law I guess.

Blimey. Is there any type of power meter which you don't own?

Stages obvs.

I may have a problem, it is true.

Actually given the recent surge in the number of different powermeter types I'm a long way off Ultimate Buyer status (or at least that's what I tell myself).

I've got an SRM, three powertaps (although one is now Nicks), a Pioneer, and a P2M.

Oh, and some Vectors.

The Pioneer is replacing the Powertap that is going to Nick so that I can put my Nemesis/6800 wheels back on the Serotta, it will mean that I've got 6800 throughout on that bike also, for sad groupset nerd points.

Thanks Hovis, this is great.

I took the bike to the guy who did my initial bike fit to help me apply the measurements so they should be right, but i have shifted the saddle forward by about 3mm since he set it up as it felt more comfy.

I may get the tape measure out and have another look myself as the bike fitter seemed in a bit of a rush when he was helping me out. I reckon if anything is off it's the saddle-BB setback or the handlebar-saddle length, so it may be a case of changing stem

Have checked the crank length too, and it's the same on both bikes.

The mystery continues...

Repped

I definitely notice changes to power delivery if my backside moves even a few millimetres forward or backwards relative to the bb. Hip angle and glute activation can make a big difference.

I think this may be playing a part in it.
My lower back is getting stiff on the newer bike as I think my hips aren't as rotated as much as they should be and so my spine curves and my mighty glutes aren't firing 100%.
Am using the same saddle on each bikes so it must be something to do with the length (or maybe drop) from saddle to handlebars?

btw that powermeter24 pioneer was single side only. Stages G2 is out now maybe there is hope? I have the same issue; don't want to let go of shimano but still want powermeter when they get even cheaper; quite excited by aspects of Pioneer single side.

My saddle has been too high. Not really sure why. Partly down to me dumping those stupid Speed play adaptors maybe. But I'm not writing off fairies.

Lowered it.

Felt less powerful.

But found I could hold threshold far longer.

Bloody fairies.

#science

I notice my left/right balance becomes (more) skewed if my saddle is too high.

Can I come pick this up?

Sure, I'm in Colorado right now but I'm back on Tuesday next week.

If you want to get the wheels earlier than that you are welcome, but you'd need to pull the cassette off (easy) and forgive the heinous state of the spare bedroom (hard).

I'm going to check this.

But my L/R balance has varied heavily, either since my achilles popped. Mainly after a run. Which both aggravates it, and fatigues both legs.

Did a tough 15 km run yesterday.
Doing 110%FTP climb repeats tonight.
Saddle now correct.

So if my L/R balance is sorted. It was the seatpost fairies all along.

No rush, I'll get it when you're back.

Hmmm, just adding up my current collection. Which is:

6 track Powertaps
2 road Powertaps
1 MTB Powertap
3 road Power2Max classics
1 MTB Power2Max classic
1 road Power2Max S type
2 Quarq Rikens
And a Stages sitting in a box

Ultimate Buyer status beckons, I fear...

6!? Dibs one if you ever want to move one on.

My commuter hack bike will soon need a new rear wheel so I'm on the lookout for a cheap PowerTap (non-disc) to shove in there for fun. Hoping to find an old ANT+ hub (shimano, 32h) for <£200.

But even that would mean only 3 PowerTap hubs...