-
• #5327
ah cool, what cantis did you get? Surly does a nice SS cable hanger btw: http://www.wiggle.co.uk/surly-long-rear-cable-hanger/
-
• #5328
Tektro CR720. I think they should do the trick ok hopefully.
Ah man that cable hanger is really nice, thanks for the recommendation! Deciding between a fork or steerer mounted hanger now. I want the stem slammed so will probably go for fork mounted.
-
• #5329
Fork mounted is best if you have somewhere to fit it on the fork. It reduces the length of the cable run, which is the main cause of brake judder.
-
• #5330
Tektro CR720
They are really nice especially for the money.
-
• #5331
It reduces the length of the cable run, which is the main cause of brake judder
Strictly speaking, it's not the length of the cable which is the problem, it's having the steerer in the brake actuation load path.
-
• #5332
I knew my simplified version wouldn't be tester approved.
-
• #5333
I have a Surly hanger for the rear, proper nice thing! But due to the ST-slot being on the front, i had to lathe the seat clamp bolt (OnOne-clamp) to make it fit.
Front is a fork mounted thing, so had to drill the forks. -
• #5334
New arrival today....
-
• #5335
But due to the ST-slot being on the front, i had to lathe the seat clamp bolt (OnOne-clamp) to make it fit.
I don't understand this. You know you're allowed to have the clamp slot opposite the tube slot, don't you? In fact, there is an argument that you should have the clamp slot opposite the tube slot.
-
• #5336
I hear this for the first time, any more info on that? I always thought the slot on the seattube should align with the slot on the clamp.
-
• #5337
any more info on that?
A perfect band clamp has uniform radial pressure. As band clamps are imperfect, they tend to produce peak radial pressure at the screw termini, adjacent to the slot. To resist this, you should put the slot in the band clamp on an uninterrupted section of the tube, as this will resist deformation under the abnormal load better than the unsupported edges of the tube slot.
-
• #5338
I usually run my seatclamp with the slot at the front but was doing it to cut down on the amount of exposed frame slot in the hope that less water would make it's way into my seattube.
-
• #5339
You outbid me and I hate you.
-
• #5340
I don't understand this...
Yes, the clamp slot is on the back.
No slot on the back of the tube means there wasn´t enough space for the hanger, before machining the bolt.
1 Attachment
-
• #5341
Any advice on drilling the fork? I'm contemplating drilling mine.
-
• #5342
I drilled mine. 8mm bit for a recessed nut off the top of my head. No problems.
-
• #5343
Any advice on drilling the fork?
Just do it, don't fuck it up
-
• #5344
Cheers. I assume you drill from the inside out using the rear hole as a guide.
-
• #5345
No slot on the back of the tube means there wasn´t enough space for the hanger, before machining the bolt.
Ah, a picture is worth a thousand words.
-
• #5346
Any advice on drilling the fork?
Use a drill press, not a hand drill
-
• #5347
I used a hand drill and did it front to back, including beers and smoke...
Just don't fuck it up ;) -
• #5348
A job to do at work then. As much as I'd like a pillar drill I've no space or funds.
-
• #5349
If I recall correctly, when drilling forks for caliper brakes you would want a 6mm hole on the front and an 8mm on the back.
I had a fork drilled a few years ago by my LBS for a fiver. Worth asking as its a small price to pay to avoid errors.
-
• #5350
when drilling forks for caliper brakes you would want a 6mm hole on the front and an 8mm on the back.
6mm through if your brake has conventional nuts, 8mm on the back with a 10mm spotface or counterbore if it uses Allen key tube nuts
Cheers @andyp. Yeah @amey the idea is that I am going to get rowdy in Epping Forest and try some ssxc racing/courses.