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• #1702
https://www.lfgss.com/comments/9221593/ etc. - 3 years on and still in use with no sign of delamination.
More recently I've used the plastic stiffener from the middle of a dead laptop bag which seems about right at 1.1mm thick -
• #1703
Yep, think I've decided on an approach. Thanks all for the input. Trying to avoid gaffa tape / cable ties as the bike look quite neat at the moment.
Black plastic flowerpot, two holes and rivets. Someone looks to have sorted something vaguely professional looking with this method.
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• #1704
Ummmm, posted too soon it seems. ^^That looks work intensive, but excellent.
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• #1705
plastic flowerpot
Nice!
Curved just right and if you turn it upsidedown, it flares nicely.
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• #1706
Would rep.
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• #1707
Plastic liners from old panniers et cetera, riveted or bolted on is the most solid and effective, though I've never tried using a broom-type of extension.
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• #1708
Cheers for that - I guess I'll have to give it a go!
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• #1709
stay mounted on the inside mean water drain off outside the mudguard toward your feets.
LBS for big slick tyres or truck inner tube.
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• #1710
This is where you can fit MTB inner tube on the bottom of the flowerpot to acquired additional coverage.
The inner tube mean that it won't get caught on anything.
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• #1711
Is there much benefit to a flap on the front egde of the rear guard? I'm going for maximum coverage so thought I'd put one there too, but if the guard comes down to the chainstays I'm not really sure it's going to provide any benefit. I can't recall seeing it done before.
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• #1712
I can't recall seeing it done before.
Ed did, with and old tyre I believe: keeps the front of the drivetrain clean(er).
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• #1713
28*700 tires, frame clearance for 35c, but alas no mudguard mounts.
I have a spare fork with mudguard mounts that can serve for the front, but where do I mount the rear guards?
Would like to avoid p-clips. Someone mentioned tapping the axle of the rear hub and fixing them there. I quite like that.Oh and... which guards should I take? I'd like good coverage and little rattling. And not so pricey. Bluemels in 32-35mm?
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• #1714
Anyone know the difference between Gilles Berthoud type L and type C?
edit: Seems type L have a longer front compared to type C
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• #1715
Bluemels are short, you'll get wet feet. I use longboards in 35mm, some rattling but very good coverage. PDWs are long too
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• #1716
There is, currently mudguard stop right at or just before the chainstay bridge, meaning water get sprayed toward chain and chainset, sometime feet.
The guide using the SKS long flap on that location mean the water get directed away from the chain/chainset.
This with the front and rear long mudflap combine should keep your drivetrain clean.
If you want cleaner, go for proper mudguard like the GB/Honjo, as the stay mounted on the outside instead of the inside, and the channel on both side allow water to drain off properly SKS doesn't have much of a channel).
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• #1717
Or get some SKS blanks and Berthoud hardware.
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• #1718
Don't know if you've got QR, but I've just got a set of these for mine, and going attempt drilling them out for 10mm rear axle.
http://www.axiomgear.com/products/fenders/full-coverage-fenders/axle-runner/
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• #1719
I've got a 10mm Axle (but hollow), 120mm spacing.
Maybe I can get a QR in there and fix the Mudguard to the QR?
>>>>> DIY thread... -
• #1720
Cheers, it's the full 60mm GB I have, stays on the outside. Think I'll add the extra flap for overkill and functional amazeballs appearance.
Ummed and aahhed about fitting and in the end a £1.99 piece of aluminium tube and the durama and that came with made a perfect mount for suspension corrected forks.
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• #1721
I will let you know how my drilling goes...
Oooer missus.
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• #1722
So this happened back in May and since then I've been riding my fixed bike around with one and a half mudguards:
I did drill the rear mudguard as my Pearson Douche has a proper mudguard fitting in the brake bridge and I hate the PDW brake bracket, and that's where it broke, but I still don't really think this should have happened and am not inclined to spend £70 on another pair.
I've now put 28mm tyres on so definitely need new guards.
I think I have snapped just about every mudguard known to man, and it's always the rear that goes. I would like decent coverage, no rattles and to pay less than £70. Significantly less. The obvious thing I suppose is longboards but internet research suggests they snap more than rice krispies on a bad day.
Has anyone got any alternative suggestions before I give longboards a go?
Alternatively, if anyone has a friend who works at a mudguard or bicycle accessory company I would be happy to work with them to develop a mudguard that doesn't actually break - perhaps using fibre-reinforced concrete or COR-TEN steel - or destructively test their new products to oblivion (well, snap them).
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• #1723
Just give up bieks
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• #1724
I'm thinking of giving mudguards a go on my Giant tcx - what are good options with 28mm tyres?
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• #1725
If they all break at the same spot maybe it's you.
#friendlyface
Do you use a soft washer of some sort?
Is the fender stressed, or is it following it's natural curve?
Cut up an old plastic water bottle (watch out for the sharp edges though - I put gaffer tape round mine), drill/punch a little hole in it and the mudguard, then cable tie it on. Spot of extra gaffer tape to hold it nice and steady and ker-pow.