Any question answered...

I use a track chainring on the outside of a set of 6700 cranks. Might be easier for you to do the same as you can then place a small spacer behind cog to improve the chain line.

I use a track chainring on the outside of a set of 6700 cranks

I use a track chainring on the outside of a set of 5700 cranks

The mid point between rings on Shimano road cranks is about 43.5mm, so the outer position gives a chainline of about 47mm and the inner position gives about 40mm. @Sumo must decide which is closer to whatever chainline his hub provides.

How much do you need? I may be able to ship you some...

Awesome thank you. I'm using a standard Formula hub and EAI sprocket

i reckon youll lose a good twenty percent on the way. damn those cheap beers, techno clubs, night shops everywhere. you wonder why anybody would want to live there..

btw, if yould like i could do a smallish architecture tour with them near brandenburger tor and unter den linden, reichstag usw. sounds like fun to me!

Except for Paul Motolite which other V brake (MTB) with most vertical adjust-ability of pads?

45mm of adjustment https://www.danscomp.com/products/482017/Bombshell_V-Brake_Arms.html no personal experience with them...

Great! BUT not that cheap compared to Motolites which come with pads etc. And can't find them to buy anywhere in UK/EU .. basically I want to run 650b wheel in 26" frame which according to this needs just 12.5mm adjustment each side: http://velo-orange.blogspot.co.uk/2011/05/converting-lht-to-650b.html

26“ to 650b conversion details: Most classic mountain bikes and some popular modern offerings such as the Surly LHT (26”) have adequate clearance for all of the smooth tread 650b tires. A 650b/38mm wheel actually suits the dimensions of the LHT better than a narrow 26”/32-38mm wheel, which leaves gaping clearances and unfamiliar handling. Conversion simply relies on a brake with 12.5 mm of vertical adjustability (half the 25mm difference between 559 and 584). We have already identified that Tektro CR720 brakes work at the top of their range, as did a prototype Grand Cru brake hanging out in our shop. Of course there are a few v-brake designs that have been around since the 90’s with loads of vertical adjustment as well.

Penultimate comment suggests 16mm up or down with these http://www.probikeshop.com/en/gb/elevn-technologies-brake-adaptors/103473.html

Or http://www.ukbikestore.co.uk/product/383/pxvb00/promax-p-1-linear-v-brakes.html have 35mm adjustment and come in mini v too...

If this is anything to be relied on then they will work! https://www.flickr.com/photos/franklyn/11259990165/in/photostream/

http://www.cxmagazine.com/box-components-promax-mini-v-brake-linear-pull-eclipse-p-1-cyclocross

Both brakes offer a whopping 35mm of vertical pad adjustment, which the Henderson says is 30 percent more than other brakes. Perhaps this pad adjustment would allow you to run your dad’s 27″ wheels (bigger is better, right?), or if you’re really lucky, 650b wheels on some 700c bikes, if we did our math right (there’s a 19mm difference in radius from a 650b wheel to a 700c wheel, so if the pads are on the high side of the 35mm slot on a 700c wheel, you might be in luck, but don’t trust us, and YMMV).

Next question; is there anyway of making 130mm OLN 5800 hubs work on 135mm MTB with MTB cassette?

2.5mm spacer on either side? I'd have thought there's enough axle.

2.5mm spacer on either side? I'd have thought there's enough axle.

Just 5mm on the left, no need for extra space on the right, but the axle isn't long enough to provide proper support, and 5800 has a modern axle so it doesn't lend itself to being moved sideways or being swapped out for something longer.

Something like this? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bicycle-Wheel-Hub-Axle-Spacers-3mm-or-5mm-Black-or-Silver-Pair-or-Pack-of-Ten-/281148609744?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368 or http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Top-Quality-Aluminium-Alloy-10mm-Axle-Spacer-Kit-Convert-Track-Hub-FIXIE-/221864254073?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368

Does Shimano MTB cassette work on road freehub?

Something like this?

Nothing like that. Look at the exploded view of the FH-5800. The axle doesn't pass through the lock nuts like it used to on old fashioned hubs.

Does Shimano MTB cassette work on road freehub?

All current Shimano MTB cassettes (including CS-M8000/9000 11-speed) go on a standard 8/9/10-speed HG freehub, you'll need to use the 1.85mm spacer to fit them on an 11-speed road freehub. In general, one might also have dérailleur cage interference with the spokes if one were to use an 11-speed MTB cassette on a road wheel, although in your case moving the hub to the right and reducing the dish should solve that.

Why do they still use loose ball / cup and cone (what's the correct term?) bearings?

So which ones?

Can anyone recommend a bottle cage that doesn't scratch up bidons? Does such a thing even exist?

Just coldset the frame?

King cage says theirs don't but my experience with Rapha bottles was on the contrary

Difference between scratching and marking. King don't mark bottles like alu cages. Ti doesn't mark either but will scratch.

One scratchless option is magnets... http://vincero-design.com/

Why do they still use loose ball / cup and cone

Because you can't fit a cartridge bearing with 9×¼" balls inside a cassette.

So which ones?

There is no OTP solution. You need to re-manufacture the axle with the extra 5mm on the NDS. You'd also have to buy a longer QR. If you want a mid-range Shimano non-disc 135mm hub, get the FH-T780

ah crap .. so you think rebuilding wheel with MTB hub is easier/cheaper than trying to make 5800 fit?