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Yeah. No shame in having bought the wrong seatpost. The shame is not to learn from it. Buy a vernier caliper (they can be had for cheap) and learn how to measure using it. It is essential if you want to order parts online and DIY.
A strong cam qr will keep wheel in place... Forward facing dropouts and chain tensioner can be a bit tedious...
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I owned a caliper once. Then I lost it. Or my dad lost it. Or my dad just took it and assimilated it into his workshop and then lost it.
While working with a caliper, there is the problem, that the upper part of the seattube looks a tiny bit crimped, as if someone mounted a seatpost a size to small and compensated by clamping up harder.Well we'll see tomorrow. Seatpost, rear brake, handlebars, new headset, and lot's of other small stuff will arrive tomorrow. Today the tires arrived. 50mm Kojaks. I also sprayed the inside of the frame with some kind of anti rust stuff.
Now the frame stinks and leaks sticky brown fluid everywhere. Will clean up again tomorrow and start throwing parts at it.@kifla I have a cheap crankset with a 46t ring lying around, as well as a 18t cog, which should give me a nice and usable ~66GI. Question is: Will the 46t fit? I have a pretty long BB axle handy, but some testing is in order...
If it doesn't fit I will hang my head in shame and buy the right one.
Although the catalogues I found say 26.4mm usually, so it's a bit of a gamble.
Anyway: there's not much room in the dropouts and I'm good at pulling rear wheels out of alignment.. Is there any recommended chain tensioner for this setup?
The Surly Hurdy Gurdy should work, but it's expensive...