Another Weenie Cannondale

http://www.wheelsfar.com/road-wheels/tubular/20mm/20mm-x-23mm-tubular-wheelset-extralite-hub.html

http://www.tufo.com/hi-composite-carbon/

just sayin ;)

Does sealant even work with latex inners?
http://velonews.competitor.com/2010/12/news/cyclocross/technical-faq-with-lennard-zinn-the-limits-of-sealant_152087
Assuming it does:
Tubeless - something pokes a hole in your tyre, sealant seals it. Something pokes a big hole in your tyre, you put an inner tube in and ride hom.

Tubular - something pokes a hole in your tyre, sealant sealt it. Something pokes a big hole in your tyre, you get a taxi home and it goes in the bin.

Pretty much. I just chose the lightest variant of the Red22 cranks available. Also wanted to try something new as I have 175 on my Rych and 172.5 on the Ribble.

I'm not looking at tubeless. If i want to go with some inconvenient wheels I'll get some tubs like the ones @amey posted and drop some proper weight. Tubeless doesnt offer enough benefits for me to want to bother with it

Spare tub, yo

Rode the etape on tubs, without a spare. Not enough time between the broom wagen to fix a flat clincher so thought I'd at least treat myself to a plush ride.

How it looks at the moment. Wheels behind will be the ones used for the time being as they kind of match. Photos of components of scales to come.

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I was wondering if the small weight saving is negated by not having as much leverage on the crank.

These guys never had much trouble getting the power through on 165 cranks

If that was true we'd all be using 190mm cranks for the highest leverage. People are always posting about how much better short cranks are so I wanted to see if I notice a difference. If not i'll probably just use 175 in future as theyre cheaper (i got my brand new in box 7710's for 90 quid)

Surely bike fit, toe overlap and pedal strike are reasons not to use too long a crank.
There must be a reason why road cranks of 170-175mm are preffered to 165mm.

quick tinterweb search:
http://bikedynamics.co.uk/FitGuidecranks.htm

Broadly speaking, crank length doesn't matter and is a red herring.

Any benefits will be seen from going shorter rather than longer though.

Here you go:
http://www.cervelo.com/en/engineering/ask-the-engineers/crank-length.html

It's more about hip closure angle and whether you knee yourself in the stomach/chest or not.

Short cranks=more arros too

@sumo speaks truth

Also matters if you're a KOPS believer or not

5465 gram CAAD10 over at WW

Maybe I should be aiming for sub 6...how much does a caad10 weigh?

Also need some light but not bank breaking bottle cages if anyone has any suggestions

Some photos

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@Sumo @umop3pisdn @Turkish @dry interesting cheers!

Bontrager xxx off eBay are quite cheap and light, whether original or copied.

This has been ridden and heres a shitty phone picture. After all the talk of light CAAD's in this thread it came in at a dissapointing 7.5ish. With force brakes, tape and the extra cables it'll come in at 7.7kg. Is there any easy ways to drop some weight? GP400SII's on the way.

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Go fixed? Wheels are probably the biggest place to save.

Is there any easy ways to drop some weight?

Have a big poo before you ride it, or ride it naked.

Thatll be the next port of call. Done some maths and should drop about 450-500 grams. Still want to go below 7kg if possible. Which are the lightest cables?