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Not sure that logic would work, because by putting a smaller wheel on you are also steeping the head tube angle.
That's only true if you don't extend the fork/headtube further down, though right? in my mock-up (admittedly very poor!) I haven't changed the angle of the head tube angle.
This website is super helpful for figuring out trail yojimg.net/bike/web_tools/trailcalc.php
Thanks - that is really helpful... however, I am having difficulty knowing what is a good range to aim for in the numbers it outputs. Should I try to get the trail between 40 and 100 roughly? Higher number for trail creates "better steering" is that right?
Thanks!
jdmitch-
Should I try to get the trail between 40 and 100 roughly? Higher number for trail creates "better steering" is that right?
No, the higher the trail, the more stable the bike. Sounds good, but too stable and you find steering unresponsive. A low trail randonneur bike would have trail of 38 or below - perhaps as low as 30, so perhaps aim for 40 as the higher end of the range you're aiming for. Cargo bikes might go even lower trail - I tried out a Babboe City bakfiets at the weekend and it was super twitchy when carrying my baby. I had a look afterwards and found that the rake resulted in pretty much 0 trail. I'm sure that's super when you have 100kg of kids and shopping loaded, but it was far too responsive with just the nipper.
General_Strike
Not sure that logic would work, because by putting a smaller wheel on you are also steeping the head tube angle.
This website is super helpful for figuring out trail http://yojimg.net/bike/web_tools/trailcalc.php
Also, i would cut the headtube out and put a longer one in the extends past the downtube, that way you can mount your load lower and it will be more stable.
Old set of 1" bmx forks and a 20" wheel worked quite nicely for me. I just slid a 1.125" steerer over top of the bmx forks and welded it up.