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Not sure that logic would work, because by putting a smaller wheel on you are also steeping the head tube angle.
This website is super helpful for figuring out trail http://yojimg.net/bike/web_tools/trailcalc.php
Also, i would cut the headtube out and put a longer one in the extends past the downtube, that way you can mount your load lower and it will be more stable.
Old set of 1" bmx forks and a 20" wheel worked quite nicely for me. I just slid a 1.125" steerer over top of the bmx forks and welded it up.
M_A_X-
Not sure that logic would work, because by putting a smaller wheel on you are also steeping the head tube angle.
That's only true if you don't extend the fork/headtube further down, though right? in my mock-up (admittedly very poor!) I haven't changed the angle of the head tube angle.
This website is super helpful for figuring out trail yojimg.net/bike/web_tools/trailcalc.php
Thanks - that is really helpful... however, I am having difficulty knowing what is a good range to aim for in the numbers it outputs. Should I try to get the trail between 40 and 100 roughly? Higher number for trail creates "better steering" is that right?
Thanks!
jdmitch
So if I have a smaller wheel (reduced trail) but a straight fork (increased trail) then it should be ok? Just basing it on Wikipedia's explanations of rake/trail... Ideally I would like to have a seat-shaped front rack cargo area that extends beyond the wheel. It seemed to make sense in my head, but maybe I have not thought it through? This is a mockup (the smaller 24" wheel is just the black circle with the centre at the end of the straight "fork" end that is drawn in as a black line). The fuchsia area is where the cargo area would be (obviously have to be well attached/distributed to the frame):