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  • Put the weight on the frame for sure.

    As Mr strike says, it's all about the trail for the handling. Need to make sure it's nice and low, if I remember rightly, I made mine to be low 40s.

    I've modified mine since that picture, I've put a new rack on it with supports going to the top of the head tube, it's way stronger! Took someone who weighed 14st on the front for 5 miles..

    I would just order some steel as opposed to using a bit of trolley (as its galved and nasty to weld)

    15mm Steel box section is cheap. I use Parkside steel.

  • So if I have a smaller wheel (reduced trail) but a straight fork (increased trail) then it should be ok? Just basing it on Wikipedia's explanations of rake/trail... Ideally I would like to have a seat-shaped front rack cargo area that extends beyond the wheel. It seemed to make sense in my head, but maybe I have not thought it through? This is a mockup (the smaller 24" wheel is just the black circle with the centre at the end of the straight "fork" end that is drawn in as a black line). The fuchsia area is where the cargo area would be (obviously have to be well attached/distributed to the frame):

  • Not sure that logic would work, because by putting a smaller wheel on you are also steeping the head tube angle.

    This website is super helpful for figuring out trail http://yojimg.net/bike/web_tools/trailcalc.php

    Also, i would cut the headtube out and put a longer one in the extends past the downtube, that way you can mount your load lower and it will be more stable.

    Old set of 1" bmx forks and a 20" wheel worked quite nicely for me. I just slid a 1.125" steerer over top of the bmx forks and welded it up.

  • You better get good quick at making stoppies with that weight balance...

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