I use the Park Tool dishing tool. But any dishing tool will do the job. The Park TM-1 is out by 10% or so with sapim race spokes. I think 25 is around 1200N. sold mine recently. I currently use a DT Swiss tensio (got two in fact) and a sapim gauge. I do not however use the charts provided as I have my own jig with a load cell and get deflections of that.
Doing tension by how hard the nipple is to turn will lead to variable tension as the threads are not perfect. Some nipples are just hard to turn and yet the tension is no different to the neighbouring spokes. Nipples do distort as well which can cause them to be tight. The main reason why your method works is either you have pretty good feel and doing it on a track wheel helps alot as it not dished.
Hovis just ride the wheel as it is. If you can feel the hop then bin it. I never try to correct roundness. The rim is either good or it isn't if it isn't it gets binned (I dont bin many rims thankfully).
I use the Park Tool dishing tool. But any dishing tool will do the job. The Park TM-1 is out by 10% or so with sapim race spokes. I think 25 is around 1200N. sold mine recently. I currently use a DT Swiss tensio (got two in fact) and a sapim gauge. I do not however use the charts provided as I have my own jig with a load cell and get deflections of that.
Doing tension by how hard the nipple is to turn will lead to variable tension as the threads are not perfect. Some nipples are just hard to turn and yet the tension is no different to the neighbouring spokes. Nipples do distort as well which can cause them to be tight. The main reason why your method works is either you have pretty good feel and doing it on a track wheel helps alot as it not dished.
Hovis just ride the wheel as it is. If you can feel the hop then bin it. I never try to correct roundness. The rim is either good or it isn't if it isn't it gets binned (I dont bin many rims thankfully).