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• #3052
Wolf Tooth go from 38T? Narrow wide too.
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• #3053
I have Narrow wide actually, but it doesn't make much sense for ss does it? It's just plenty more money to throw at it. And the reason for running ss is to save money on the drivetrain.
Maybe SRAMs my best choice sub 40gbp -
• #3054
I got a gebhardt chainring for that use and it's fine.
Combined with sram S300.
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• #3055
Then you are running 1/8" chain right? I was thinking I'd keep weight down using 3/32" chain. Maybe Velo Solo 42t 130 bcd 3/32" is my best option if I want to try something new, although then I will probably end up running 42t - 19/21t. Last too seasons I have run 39t - 18/19t and 40t - 19/21t. maybe it's time for a big boy ratio ;-)
But maybe this is cheaper/better:
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• #3056
1/8" yes
I started using 43-18 and I found it hard. Also at the begining i was using 144bcd cranks and wanted to get that velosolo, but it wasn't avaliable at 144bcd so I never got it.
Now running 40 18.That sram c'ring is cheaper, but maybe in terms of durability will be better the gebhardt.
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• #3057
Yeah Id end up painting the "socks" myself.
And yeah, never thought of getting a broken track frame and doing it that way!!
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• #3058
I actually have some old campy track ends back in Denmark you can have if you are not in a rush. I need to get stuff send over here eventually, but I want to pile up to save money.
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• #3059
That would be ace!! I'm in no rush so put my name on them!!
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• #3060
They are on the list. ;-)
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• #3061
Rough sketch, dropout will not fit horizontally I am afraid.
I am not sure there is enough stays to actually make this work. You might have to talk to a real framebuilder about it, as your current dropouts is 'lugged' - like on old Colnago dropouts. Maybe you can somehow keep the lugs and weld some of these Surly dropout to the leftover lugs:And have the option of going back to gears. It might look a little clumsy, but It would be faster, cheaper and easier probably... If they fit.
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• #3063
Specification seemed really decent (725 tubing, BB5 brakes. SRAM levers), until I read that it's 1kg lighter than my touring bike.
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• #3064
Seems hard to fathom where that weight comes from, perhaps the fork is a bit beefy? That said, I have no idea how much my pompino weighs, only that its fairly hefty, and I've happily raced cross on that.
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• #3065
I bet it's the wheel that contributed massively as well as the steel fork.
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• #3066
Little too quick to judge on the wheels actually, according to Alexrims, the rims is 480g each, not exactly porky to be fair.
Least it's actually wide.
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• #3067
Might be shipped weight... Tried to add up rough component weight - even over-generous guessing at a 2.5kg frame, 1.5kg fork (heavier than the ECR fork on my 29er...) and 3kg wheels+tyres/rotor/cog etc. I could only get it to about 10 with the other bits...
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• #3068
Looks like it would make a good pit bike for the Everyman racer. It costs about the same as binning a rear mech into a rear wheel, if you have a high spec geared CX race bike.
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• #3069
Solid steel rod steerer.
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• #3070
Pit bike seemed apt, I'm currently very keen on the Charge Plug 1 which cost a reasonable £500 for a CX ready bicycle, if it's less than 9kg, it's a winner;
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• #3072
Got one on order. Will report on arrival.
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• #3073
Cable routing under the TT and fluted square taper cranks >>>>>
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• #3074
Plus seatcluster/wishbone/dropouts junctions look horrible.
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• #3075
.
1 Attachment
I need a new chainring. Been running a black 110 bcd 39t Sram alu ring two years ago and a black 40t Stronglight alu last season. Both died after a season. Now I need a new one around the size but for 130bcd. I have surly cogs on the back (19 and 21t) and a kmc as specific chain. But what should I go for on the front if I wanted something light, 130bcd, black, long lasting and ss specific? I have even considered 1/8 chainring but it doesn't seem to be found smaller than 42t.