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I would use sapim laser front and NDS rear and sapim race DS rear. Race/comps all round is overkill especially for the front less so on the rear. Alpine III are over kill those spoke a great for very heavy riders, tandems, tourists.....
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At 75kg, 24 CX-Rays is plenty for road wheels. On the other hand, why bother with the marginal gain of fewer/aero spokes if you're not racing, and not even using race rims? Build them 32/32 with round spokes and launch yourself onto unpaved roads with extra confidence and £80 of beer money in your pocket :-)
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Mcddc tester, if you know where those Zipp articles are please let us know.
It's one of those things which is almost impossible to google, since the search terms are so ubiquitous :-(
There's some somewhat interesting stuff from Williams Cycling on different lacing patterns with a generic rim, but the article I recall pointed up some interesting differences in the pattern of deflection according to the stiffness of the rim; obviously very stiff (wide, deep, carbon) rims try pretty hard to remain circular, so the solution to the stress calculation looks more like a canted over circle than the wobbly line you get from a floppy rim, which just gets dragged in whichever direction the local spoke is pulling.
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Tx, nice read, nice to see somebody use actual modelling.
Quote: "Accordingly, 2x lacing should be used with 20 spokes or less, 3x lacing should be
used with 24 or 28 spokes, and 4x lacing should be used with 32 spokes or greater"Hmmm...common wisdom is that 4 cross on 32 spokes means the spokes aren't nicely perpendicular to the rim anymore. Which is supposedly a Bad Thing.
So that's a bit unusual, for 28H (the rim they used for the model) they recommended 3 cross which is used less than 2 cross. I've no experience, at 36H you probably can't do much wrong anyway. (bar mega undertensioning)
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that's a bit unusual
Yes, usually we don't have crossings exceed the integer part of spokes/9 for 700C or 27" rims on small flange hubs (ERD≥10×spoke hole PCD), not because the spoke angle at the rim is problematic but because the spokes go past the point of being tangent to the hub PCD and start overlapping the heads of adjacent spokes.
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2 cross on the hson plus rims (28h, high flange track hubs) that seems to be the main wisdom on 28h. Some do 3 cross but its rarer.
If you look at the circle to which the spokes are tangential, 2X on large flange hubs generally ends up being a larger circle than 3X on small flange hubs, so the tension added to the spokes by the drive torque is less.
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The wheels in that paper where only tensioned DS to 980N this is not enough and he calls it a highly tensioned wheel. I have never found 1000N is enough DS rear 1200N is enough.
I personally think for 28 spoke wheels 2x or 3x is fine. The difference are too small to cause a problem if the wheel is properly built. 2x lacing should give a stiffer wheel but even that is marginal at best.
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@thecycleclinic @mdcc_tester you guys are the best
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Zipp article
It is referenced and discussed here: http://www.slowtwitch.com/Tech/Debunking_Wheel_Stiffness_3449.html
...but no direct link
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Well found, I don't often get beaten at google :-)
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If its not trued, dished and stress relieved it is not built. ? you have laced it and put some tension on it. that is step one. I hope you enjoy the next few steps. Keep plugging away. It not about how quickly you build it.
I never knew googling was a game it could be a great game.
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But lacing is theraputic so you get to do it again. It's a joy really it is.
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Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help
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24F/28R is fine. I am heavier and ride 20F/24R without issue. The rim is stiff that what allows the lower spoke count. DA hubs are very nice and highly recommended. Just service one in while and they will last for a long time.
Jwestland spoke tension should be +/- 5%. Dont bother trying to true radialy. If the tension is within the spec I say the wheel will be acceptably round <0.5mm and certainly <1mm if the rim is any good. If the rim shows hop with even tension bin the rim but hop has to significant to notice probably over 2mm. I find all brands of rim from HED to H plus son vary in how round they are from rim to rim 0.2mm is ideal but mostly the rim is round to within 0.5mm and there is little you can do about it. Also a dial gauge is the only good way to measure these things due to the hop often looking bigger than it actually is.
Radial truing to get it rounder will result in uneven spoke tension and premature spoke failure. Getting a rim straight to within 0.2mm is pretty easy whether it stays though is another matter. If it fully stress relieved and stiff enough it should but slight movement over time up to 0.4mm wobble has been known.
Go for even tension or as even as is reasonable. Going by tone is not something I can do I find it hard to know how even tension really is that way or what the tension is. A tension gauge like the Park TM-1 could give you better results.
Mcddc tester, if you know where those Zipp articles are please let us know. Zipp do publish quite useful information.