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• #2
Advice for nice 700x37 tires would be nice as well! I thinking about these ones: http://www.rosebikes.nl/artikel/continental-sportcontact-2-reflex-raceband/aid:752165
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• #3
Rust in the tubes.
Common for steel frames to get surface rust inside, views are split on how to look after them.
When i have a frame stripped down or it's been subjected to swimming...... after draining and letting it dry out...... i go for a good squirt of WD40 down all the breather holes, far less hassle than boiling up linseed oil and swirling that around inside :-) others will have differing views on how to tackle the issue.
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• #5
Oh and I'm riding from Amsterdam to Den Haag next weekend - where can I get good coffee!? :)
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• #6
Thanks but that's too expensive:( And I don't know, I'm not really a coffee place kinda guy haha. Hope you enjoy your ride.
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• #7
I decided to use the Shimano XT external bb cranks from my mtb but I have a bit of a problem with the chainline.
With the chainring fitted in the middle position this gives a chainline of 50mm but the middle of the rear cassette is 43,5mm.... This gives a pretty shitty chainline. And I don't really understand it, normally on MTB's the middle ring should line up with the middle of the cassette right? -
• #8
For touring tyres I personally use these:
Half the price of Schwalbe Marathon plus, and after a good few thousand km's, just as good!
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• #9
As a fellow dutchman I understand the 1x9 idea. In fact I have this setup on one of my bikes and it does work really well with a narrow/wide ring. I strongly advise against it if you want to do some long distance riding though. Imho trekking isn't about power but relies on cadence. 9 gears will not give you many options to maintain cadence on different hills and facing head winds etc. I think you would do yourself a real favor if you look at a nice compact set with a 11-28 cassette oslt.
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• #10
I'd avoid external BB cranks as you have less ability to manipulate chainline.
I think road as opposed to mtb external bearings are thinner which might help but not by much. I think I read that road EBBs are 2.5mm thinner. Maybe if you used these and spaced your chainring with washers you could get closer. -
• #11
ST BB will be a lot more durable and less maintenance also.
Old early-90s Shimano ST MTB triples with the spaced-out granny gear may be something to consider for this project if you want a bit more versatility than you'd get from a 1x setup; you can run them as a triple or a 110 compact double just by choosing different BB spindle lengths. M730 and M900 are two specific models that spring to mind.
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• #12
Here's where I found the info about EBBs being different thickness.
They're only 1mm each side, sorry I made a mistake.
http://handsonbike.blogspot.co.uk/2013/10/avanti-inc-3-special-crankset-setup.html -
• #13
If you're heading out to the coast and then down, The Jackie cafe (it's in a clothes shop I think) on hoofdstraat in noordwijk does a decent flat white. I'll be popping in there myself in a few weeks as I take Mrs ceepeebee on her first weekend tour.
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• #14
I have a question about tyre sizes, I'm a bit confused... I was looking at a Schwalbe tyre and it was ETRTO size 40-622 and French size 700x38C. With the ERTRO code the first number should be the real tyre width in mm right? Than what does 38C mean?
Thanks! -
• #15
Have a look at this I've found it quite helpful.
http://www.ctc.org.uk/cyclists-library/components/wheels-tyres/tyre-sizesGood luck
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• #16
Thanks for all the help guys!
Currently looking like this (sorry for the crappy picture)
I think I will put the FSA Energy crankset back with a 34 and 46t chainring. I might go for a compact crankset with squaretaper bb later...
Now I'm waiting for:
-Microshift bar end shifters
-New chain
-Procraft 26.0 compact dropbars
-A lot of small stuff.And I ordered a large seatbag from bikepack.pl:)
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• #17
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• #18
That's a bit skanky. Velo Orange usually pretty hot on QC..n
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• #19
Yeah I would second that^. I've bought quite a lot of bits from them over the years and it's always been top notch. Don't be deterred.
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• #20
I went on a small camping trip last week, it was pretty nice only the saddle hurt like hell. It's a 143mm Romin that I borrowed from my fixed gear and I always really liked.. I think it is not wide enough for this bike. Now I'm considering buying a Brooks B17 Imperial or a wider specialized Romin/Power. I really need the cut out. Any advise?
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• #21
Nice! With the small amount of saddle-bar drop you have I think you could consider a Brooks B17. If you have to ride in the rain*/leave the bike outside sometimes then a Brooks Cambium could be nice.
Also, is the right B/E shifter upside down or do the microshift levers work the other way round? Its all the way up but the derailleur is in a high gear. With my DA levers this would be the lowest gear.
* the flag in the background gave it away.
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• #22
I wonder if the cutout of the B17 Imperial is as effective as the Romin..
I think the Microshift works the other way around, it's in the correct position like this.
The trip was from Amsterdam to Ameland and back in 5 days, the picture is taken in Swifterband in Flevoland. On my way back I went over the Afsluitdijk, but I had massive headwind the entire day and some rain, didn't enjoy that day too much haha. But now that I'm following the TCR I feel like a gaint pussy... -
• #23
How's the seatpack treating you? Considering trying one of them to get away from panniers.
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• #24
Sorry Chak, forgot to reply. The seatpack is really nice, looks very well made and has lots of nice details. On this trip I fitted my sleeping bag and tent in it but on further trips I will use it for clothes and put my sleeping bag on my handlebars.
At first I wanted to buy a rack + ortlieb panniers, but this saves about 2kg's and I don't need that much stuff with me anyways.
Would recommend! -
• #25
I am/was really happy this bike, it rides better than I expected. But the the day before yesterday the dropout broke of from the seatstay.. I fixed it with some ducttape and tiewraps en rode to the nearest campsite and got it welt the day after
It's a really shitty weld so I hope it will last. I'm currently 100km south of Paris and heading for the col du tourmalet
I have to plan to cycle from Amsterdam to Rome this summer. But since I don’t really have a bike for this I decided to build a touring bike on a (tight) budget. At first I wanted to go for an old steel Rockhopper, but I already have a frame that I can put racks and stuff on pretty easily so I will use that.
I started this thread because I don’t know much about touring and some advice would be nice!
So it started as this:
Which I converted into to a sscx bike.
I stripped it all down again and cleaned it up and fitted a nice Tange sealed bearing headset.
The frame has some rust spots, should I be worried about rust inside the tubes??
The plan is to build it up with dropbars, a bar end shifter and a 9 speed cassette.
What I already have:
Racks: Original Batavus rear rack and Tubus Ergo lowrider
Wheelset. Alex Adventurer rims with Deore hubs
34-11 cassette
FSA Energy compact crankset. I want to use no front derailleur and a 34t chainring. Currently that's at the inner position giving a 41mm chainline. Is it worth it to go from this 108mm bb to a 113mm to get the chainline in de middle of the cassette?
Thanks for all the input guys!